Les Ânes Ailés Producer Profile
Les Ânes Ailés Producer Profile
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producer profile
<p>Francesco “Kikko” Pesci grew up in Rome. While working at various restaurants, in particular the infamous wine bar Litro, he was introduced to wines that blew his mind, most notably those of Panevino in <glossary term="Sardinia" title="917">Sardinia</glossary> and Ajola in <glossary term="Umbria" title="1058">Umbria</glossary>/<span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Lazio" title="585">Lazio</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Ajola’s relative proximity to Rome led to a burgeoning friendship with its founder Jacopo Battista, in turn inspiring Kikko to make wine himself. Up for a new challenge, he found himself an apprenticeship in <glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary> helping Manu di Vecchi Staraz at Vinyer de la Ruca. The plan was to help out for a year, but that year became two, then five… By 2022, Kikko had the opportunity to buy two <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> and start his own project, Les Ânes Ailés. That same year he produced his first <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> as the newest member of Les 9 Caves.</p>
<p>Both of Kikko’s <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> are in the mountain north of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls-sur-Mer</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> historically a lesser planted area. Both parcels roughly equal a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare;</glossary></span></span> Kikko had been familiar with the first <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> since arriving in the area, as it used to belong to Manuel of Vinyer de la Ruca. It’s a formidable place that can only be reached by a single, winding and treacherous road. At 300 meters, its <glossary term="Elevation" title="419">elevation</glossary> is very high for the area. It’s also unique in being <glossary term="Exposition" title="430">exposed</glossary> full North and majoritarily planted in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache Gris" title="1158">Grenache Gris</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This, combined with strong year-round winds and very low<span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> produce two <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrels</glossary> of a singular <glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvée</glossary> called “Kik-Off”. Kikko plans to replant white grapes here, as he believes the <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroir</glossary> is excellently suited to produce a dry white wine.</p>
<p>The second vineyard, acquired from a retiring farmer, is also <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraced</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It too has unique characteristics, namely the presence of <glossary term="Sand" title="909">sand</glossary> soils because it is next to a <glossary term="Tributary" title="1046">tributary</glossary> to a river, something very rare in the region. Compared to the gnarled old vines normally seen in <glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary>’ <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> those closest to the water are almost comically huge. The <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> is also shadowed by the adjacent mountain, maintaining freshness. From this land, a wine called "Ticche" is made with the traditional <glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary> composition: the three colors of <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span>(<glossary term="Grenache Blanc" title="509">Blanc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache Gris" title="1158">Gris</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Noir</glossary>) and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Carignan" title="237">Carignan</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>Rounding out the lineup are two wines made from purchased <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organic</glossary> grapes. “Arlequin” is 80% <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache Blanc" title="509">Grenache Blanc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> 20% <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vermentino" title="1081">Vermentino</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> sourced from two <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> in Laroque des Albères, a 30 minute drive north of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> “Pierrot” is 100% <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache Noir</glossary> from nearby <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Calce" title="223">Calce</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> picked a bit early and made with minimal <glossary term="Maceration" title="610">maceration</glossary> to produce an accesible wine meant to drink young.</p>
<p>Oh, and for those that are wondering: Les Ânes Ailés translates to "the winged donkeys". It's an old Italian expression, <em>gli asini volanti</em>, which implies that if you believe donkeys can fly, you are a naive fool. In a moment of personal utopianism, Kikko came up with this name based on how impossible it felt that he'd actually succeeded in starting his own project in the most unprobable of places. In this case, the donkeys actually had wings. </p>
Mattia Carfagna Producer Profile
Mattia Carfagna Producer Profile
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producer profile
<p>We first met Mattia Carfagna in 2011, when a small group of us were marooned on the island of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Giglio" title="491">Giglio</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> At the time, Mattia was working at the Altura winery with his father Francesco and cooking at their seasonal family restaurant Arcobaleno. To this day, I vividly remember the fresh anchovies he served us with the 2010, 2009 and 2008 Altura <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Ansonaco" title="106">Ansonaco</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> We’d see him again in 2015 at our New York City October trade show, then a few years later in Paris, where he’d decamped to go cook professionally. By then, he'd left the kitchen to start importing specialty Italian foods.</p>
<p>Over constant, lengthy road trips from Paris to Italy to re-up on goods, Mattia began making a habit of visiting his vignerons friends in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Auvergne" title="128">Auvergne</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Quickly falling in love with the region, he originally envisioned having a second home there. Then, in 2019, a chance opportunity came from his friends Catherine Dumora and Manuel Duveau of L’Egrapille: having recently separated, the couple were no longer using their communal <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> and asked Mattia if he wanted to rent it along with some adjacent land for 250 euros a month. That same year, Mattia made a tiny amount of wine in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Auvergne" title="128">Auvergne</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> His sister Irene poured it for us at Altura’s table during the 2020 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Dive Bouteille" title="395">Dive Bouteille</glossary></span></span>. Our interest was piqued.</p>
<p>We’d meant to get in touch but got somewhat distracted by the pandemic and resulting lockdowns of March 2020: a time that upended and changed everyone’s life one way or the other. For Mattia, with no restaurants to sell to, his food business was done. Strapped for cash and needing to leave Paris, he and his girlfriend Chiara decamped to the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Auvergne" title="128">Auvergne</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> where for over a year they lived in Catherine and Manu’s <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> with no electricity, using gas burners to cook and showering without hot water. During that time, Mattia started tending the tiny <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plots</glossary> of land he was renting as well as asking local owners if he could rent their abandoned <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Some said no, others yes. That year, Carfagna managed to start working nine tiny <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> owned by seven separate owners, all very old vines and previously abandoned.</p>
<p>Totaling little more than a single <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary> combined, most of these micro<span class="zalup"><span><span>-</span><glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plots </glossary></span></span>are within a <glossary term="Cru" title="1152">cru</glossary> of the <glossary term="Auvergne" title="128">Auvergne</glossary> <glossary term="AOC" title="108">AOP</glossary> called Châteaugay. There is no <glossary term="Basalt" title="145">basalt</glossary> here, though volcanic chunks of <glossary term="Peperite" title="1485">peperite</glossary> mark the <glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary> heavy <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroir</glossary><span>. One <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plot</glossary> within </span></span></span>Châteaugay happens to be purely <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and a final <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> in a nearby village grows on <glossary term="Basalt" title="145">basalt</glossary> soils (it's also completly surrounded by the suburban housing of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Clermont-Ferrand" title="302">Clermont-Ferrand</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> with the city visible from the vineyard). </p>
<p>An inestimable amount of work was and continues to be needed to get the land back into shape; during a January 2023 visit, we saw one <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plot</glossary> so completely overrun by thorns and shrubbery you had to squint to see the vines. For Mattia, this is a labor of love, passion and patience - honestly, it has to be seen to be believed. From these <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plots</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> a <glossary term="Gamay d'Auvergne" title="1308">Gamay d’Auvergne</glossary> called “Le Serail" is produced. With vines averaging 80 to 100 years old and <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary> at a measly 10-1<span class="zalup"><span>4<glossary term="hl/ha" title="528">hl/ha</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> production is unsurprisingly very low.</p>
<p>Knowing he could not survive producing just one wine, in 2020 Mattia reached out to <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vigneron</glossary> friends across France for grapes to make supplemental <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvées</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This landed him in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Hérault" title="525">Hérault</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> where Jeff Coutelou helped him buy fruit. In 2022, chance struck again: through Coutelou, Mattia was able to rent 3.5 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Languedoc" title="579">Languedoc </glossary></span></span>on the hills of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Faugères" title="1387">Faugères</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> A 3+ hour drive from Châteaugay, Coutelou’s team tends the vines year-round, with Mattia present for crucial moments like <glossary term="Pruning" title="834">pruning</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> From the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Languedoc" title="579">Languedoc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> he mostly farms <glossary term="Viognier" title="1111">Viognier</glossary> and a smaller amount of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache Noir </glossary></span></span>and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Muscat Petits Grains" title="699">Muscat Petits Grains</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The grapes are trucked back and <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinified</glossary> in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Auvergne" title="128">Auvergne</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> with an “Italian style” <glossary term="Maceration" title="610">macerated</glossary> white wine and a <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache</glossary>/<glossary term="Viognier" title="1111">Viognier</glossary> <glossary term="Blend" title="168">blend</glossary> produced at the time of this writing.</p>
<p>Mattia’s means in the <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> are limited to <glossary term="Fiberglass" title="445">fiberglass</glossary> and an an old <glossary term="Concrete" title="325">concrete</glossary> <glossary term="Vat/Tank" title="1140">tank</glossary> for the time being, though he hopes to grow and evolve the types of <glossary term="Vessel" title="1160">vessels</glossary> and <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinification</glossary> techniques over time. Each year the wines are made by instinct over formula, with the names and the labels often changing to reflect the unique aspect of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>For more information and pictures of those crazy aformentioned vines, please read our visit recap below (COMING SOON).</p>
Tanca Nica Producer Profile
Tanca Nica Producer Profile
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producer profile
<p>In an era of increasingly homogenized, <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="post-terroir" title="1474">post-terroir</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Natural WIne" title="708">natural-ish wines</glossary> that taste more of process than place, producers like Nicoletta Pecorelli and Francesco Ferreri feel like a throwback to a core, increasingly lost tenet of what drew us to this world of <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary> and winemaking in the first place. For us, the <glossary term="Natural WIne" title="708">natural wine</glossary> movement has always been a philosophy revolving around healthy grapes from a specific place and <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> being transformed into the purest, most honest representation the farmer could achieve. We'd tasted the Tanca Nica wines and were already believers, but a recent visit confirmed Pecorelli and Ferreri's passion and dedication for the wines and island of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantelleria</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Moreover, it showed us just how unprecedented and ambitious the Tanca Nica project actually is.</p>
<p>Before diving into the intricacies of Tanca Nica itself, let us provide some context on <glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantelleria</glossary> and its <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> A tiny island and Italian territory 55 miles southwest of <glossary term="Sicily" title="951">Sicily</glossary> and only 35 miles from Tunisia, it's most famous for its <glossary term="DOC" title="1156">DOC</glossary> capers and sweet <glossary term="Passito" title="765">passito</glossary> wine made from <glossary term="Zibibbo" title="1131">Zibibbo</glossary> grapes. While long known to be capable of making some of the world's most captivating wines, the weather conditions do not make it easy: because of constant <glossary term="Sirocco" title="1484">Sirocco</glossary> winds year round, the vines must be <glossary term="Training System" title="1039">trained</glossary> in <glossary term="Gobelet" title="497">gobelets</glossary> just a few centimeters off the ground to avoid breakage.</p>
<p>Despite being smack-dab in the Mediterranean, <glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantelleria</glossary> lacks any natural water resources and sees little rain. In such, circular basins - concas in <glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantescan</glossary> dialect - are dug around each <glossary term="Gobelet" title="497">gobelet</glossary> to retain winter rainfall. A technique called 'pizzicatura', which lasts from bud break to <glossary term="Flowering" title="1179">flowering</glossary><span class="zalup"><span><span>,</span></span></span> involves manually breaking off the taller vine shoots to make sure that the vines grow within the concas, which then serve a double purpose of water retention and additional protection from the <glossary term="Sirocco" title="1484">Sirocco</glossary> winds. Finally, since vegetal competition is so intense, vines must be planted at low density, with traditional plantations measuring two meters by two meters. This <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Training System" title="1039">training system</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> dubbed Alberello Pantesco, dates back thousands of years and is so unique it actually received UNESCO world heritage status a few years ago! </p>
<p>World heritage or not, maintaining these vines requires painstaking manual labor for very little wine. Francesco estimates it takes 800 hours of work per <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> with <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary> averaging out to 20<glossary term="hl/ha" title="528">hl/h</glossary> in a normal <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This is somewhat offset with the fact that <glossary term="Zibibbo" title="1131">Zibibbo</glossary> is one of the only varieties capable of bringing <glossary term="Second Growth" title="937">second-growth</glossary> grapes to full <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Maturation" title="639">maturity</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but not by much (<glossary term="Second Growth" title="937">second-growth</glossary> <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary> average 2. <span class="zalup"><span>5<glossary term="hl/ha" title="528">hl/h</glossary></span></span>). Most of the vines are very old, and its not uncommon for their roots to have dug over six meters into the <glossary term="Mother Rock" title="690">mother rock</glossary> to find their nutrients. For those willing to put in the time, effort and passion to see it through, the <glossary term="Concentration" title="324">concentration</glossary> and flavor in the grapes is exceptional. Sadly, it's no surprise that few if any are still up for the challenge. At its height, 5000 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of vines were planted on <glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantelleria</glossary>'s 32.5 square miles; down to about 150 today, a good amount of those vines remain abandoned.</p>
<p>Ok, four paragraphs in and we can finally start talking about Nicoletta Pecorelli and Francesco Ferreri! Francesco is a <glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantescan</glossary> native and Nicoletta is from <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Sardinia" title="917">Sardinia</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The two met in Milan by total chance: Nicoletta worked as a sales assistant in Turin and was in Milan that day to fly back to <glossary term="Sardinia" title="917">Sardinia</glossary> for the holidays! Once Francesco had finished his <glossary term="Enology" title="422">enology</glossary> studies in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Verona" title="1084">Verona</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the couple moved to New Zealand to work at a company that produces <glossary term="Biodynamic Preparation" title="826">biodynamic preperation</glossary>s before returning to <glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantelleria</glossary> to start Tanca Nica in 2015. Francesco is from a long line of fisherman, but got the wine-bug in his teens working the family vines with his father and grandfather. While he'd always felt the desire to return to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantelleria</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> he is quick to point out it wouldn't be possible without Nicoletta: </p>
<p><em>"Tanca Nica is OUR project, not mine. Without her this would never gotten off the ground or continue to exist."</em></p>
<p>Ferreri and Pecorelli work 3.5 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> spread over 15 <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> within nine <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Contrada" title="330">contradas</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> 50 <glossary term="Are" title="1208">ares</glossary> are from Francesco's family, the rest is rented from locals who don't want to see the vines go abandoned and an increasing amount of wealthy foreigners whose summer homes came with nearby vines. As they are the only <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> actively looking for new <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> it is actually common for them to be offered <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plots</glossary> to rent. The couple has used this to their advantage, trading off and dropping certain areas in search of the very best <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Most are isolated by woods and were abandoned before they took them over.</p>
<p>As Francesco explained during our visit, <glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantelleria</glossary> is a tiny island but has an incredible diversity in soil compositions, <glossary term="Microclimate" title="656">micro-climates</glossary> and <glossary term="Elevation" title="419">elevation</glossary> levels. As you will discover below, the Tanca Nica project is an unprecendented exploration and celebration of this diversity. Francesco elaborates:</p>
<p><em>"Every year we seek to capture the grapes’ life in the glass, in all of its phases (with regular tasting) until we put it in bottle. Especially regarding the </em><glossary term="Cru" title="1152"><em>cru</em></glossary><em> wines, we do not add a gram of </em><glossary term="Sulfites" title="993"><em>sulfur</em></glossary><em>, not because we are dogmatic in this discourse, but because we would like the wine to express all of itself with as much aroma as possible. For this reason, the </em><glossary term="Cru" title="1152"><em>cru</em></glossary><em> wines feel tight and closed off for a longer period than the other wines, needing at least a year in bottle (a thing we cannot do because we are still not able to keep in our storage to overcome the summer heat - but it is our objective for the future.)"</em></p>
<p>In <glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantescan</glossary> dialect, the term "Tanca Nica" means small, hilly land cultivated and arranged in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Each <glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraced</glossary> <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> - tanca in <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantescan </glossary><span>-</span></span></span> is <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinified</glossary> individually with various amounts of <glossary term="Maceration" title="610">maceration</glossary> - one day to three weeks - depending on the <glossary term="Phenols" title="784">phenolic</glossary> <glossary term="Maturation" title="639">maturity</glossary> of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Most are pre-destined to go into Tanca Nica's largest production, "Soki Soki". This 100% <glossary term="Zibibbo" title="1131">Zibibbo</glossary> is sourced from 11 tancas within six <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Contrada" title="330">contradas</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> each averaging 30 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Are" title="1208">ares</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It serves as a snapshot of the island's most common soil composition: <glossary term="Volcanic" title="1117">volcanic</glossary> <glossary term="Sand" title="909">sands</glossary> of <glossary term="Pumice" title="1482">pumice</glossary> and <glossary term="lapilli" title="1461">lapilli</glossary> known locally as Soki Soki. Meant to be accessible in its youth, the wine pops with bright fruit and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Aromatic" title="120">aromatics</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>At a whopping 1000 bottles, the second largest production is a <glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvée</glossary> called "Terra Forte". Produced from two tancas of very old vines, here the <glossary term="Zibibbo" title="1131">Zibibbo</glossary> grows on "terra forte" soils composed of <glossary term="Sand" title="909">sandy</glossary> <glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary> from degraded <glossary term="Basalt" title="145">basalt</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Obsidian" title="1483">obsidian</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The result is a much more powerful, structured expression of <glossary term="Zibibbo" title="1131">Zibibbo</glossary> that, while keeping the grapes' trademark aromatic qualities, is more serious and age-worthy. </p>
<p>Next are four <glossary term="Cru" title="1152">cru</glossary> wines, all single-tanca expressions of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Zibibbo" title="1131">Zibibbo</glossary><span>:</span></span></span></p>
<p><em>"Since 2019, we have focused our attention on four </em><glossary term="Plot" title="1133"><em>plots</em></glossary><em> which, due to their characteristics, we consider the "</em><glossary term="Grand Cru" title="501"><em>Grand Crus</em></glossary><em>" of the island. This type of work can only be done if the soil is alive, as the </em><glossary term="Microflora" title="658"><em>microfauna</em></glossary><em> interacts with the roots of the plants in a symbiotic exchange and are able to read the characteristics of the soil perfectly. To keep the wine as lively and faithful as possible to the territory, we don't add even a gram of </em><glossary term="Sulfites" title="993"><em>sulfur dioxide</em></glossary><em>. The label colors highlight the color of the terrain profile:</em></p>
<p><em>- <strong>Yellow label (from the Cufurà district)</strong>: a </em><glossary term="Plot" title="1133"><em>plot</em></glossary><em> made up of yellow </em><glossary term="Pumice" title="1482"><em>pumice</em></glossary><em>. The wine is always delicate in its aromas and structure, more immediate than the other three labels. The scents reflect the maquis: alyssum and wild thyme.</em></p>
<p><em>- <strong>Gray label (from in the Rukia district)</strong>: a </em><glossary term="Plot" title="1133"><em>plot</em></glossary><em> made up of gray </em><glossary term="Pumice" title="1482"><em>pumice</em></glossary><em> with a layer of volcanic </em><glossary term="Mother Rock" title="690"><em>mother rock</em></glossary><em> just 40 cm deep. Among the </em><glossary term="Cru" title="1152"><em>crus</em></glossary><em>, it is the one that needs the most time to express itself: at the beginning it is </em><glossary term="Reduction" title="847"><em>reduced</em></glossary><em>, with a slight </em><glossary term="Mouse" title="693"><em>mouse</em></glossary><em>, but immediately after the summer it becomes complex and acquires an incredible depth. This is the windiest district of the island and I like to think that this is also felt in the wine.</em></p>
<p><em>- <strong>Red label (from the San Marco district):</strong> a </em><glossary term="Plot" title="1133"><em>plot</em></glossary><em> made up of red </em><glossary term="Sand" title="909"><em>sand</em></glossary><em> rich in </em><glossary term="Iron" title="547"><em>iron</em></glossary><em> and aluminium. The wine naturally tends to </em><glossary term="Oxidation" title="754"><em>oxidize</em></glossary><em>, so much so that it can seem like a raisin base (that is, a dry raisin wine without sugar). Grapes that ripen near the sea, the wine absorbs all the summer heat.</em></p>
<p><em>- <strong>Black label (from the Khaggiar district):</strong> a </em><glossary term="Plot" title="1133"><em>plot</em></glossary><em> made up of black </em><glossary term="Basalt" title="145"><em>basalt</em></glossary><em>, a very hard and heavy rock. The wine resembles the red label, but is much more austere."</em></p>
<p>Pecorelli and Ferreri also produce a micro<span class="zalup"><span><span>-</span><glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvée</glossary> </span></span>of <glossary term="Catarratto" title="249">Catarratto</glossary> called "Kaffefi". It is named after the contrada where 40 to 80 year old vines grow within a single tanca. It is the only white wine that sees no <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Maceration" title="610">maceration</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> though it does go through a long, 24 hour <glossary term="Pressing" title="827">press</glossary> to give it extra structure. </p>
<p>Next in the lineup is "Firri Firri", a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="clairet" title="1467">clairet</glossary><span>-</span></span></span>style <glossary term="Blend" title="168">blend</glossary> of 85% <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Catarratto" title="249">Catarratto</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> 10% <glossary term="Pignatello" title="797">Pignatello</glossary> and 5% <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Ansonica/Inzolia" title="1323">Inzolia</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It's principally sourced from two <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> though random vines of <glossary term="Pignoletto" title="798">Pignoletto</glossary> are <glossary term="Co-plantation" title="309">co-planted</glossary> in many of the tancas and end up in the final wine. These varieties have historically always been planted along the walls of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>Only one "real" red wine is made, and in tiny quantities. It's called "Nivuro Nostrale", and is made by <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinifying</glossary> 97 plants (count em!) of 100+ year old <glossary term="Pignatello" title="797">Pignatello</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Alicante" title="90">Alicante</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> These grapes come from <em>"the most intimate and least known part of our island." </em></p>
<p>Two <glossary term="Pétillant Naturel" title="778">petillants naturels</glossary> are produced if the <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> permits. "Ghirbi Bianco" is 100% <glossary term="Second Growth" title="937">second-growth</glossary> <glossary term="Zibibbo" title="1131">Zibbibo</glossary> grapes and "Ghirbi Rosato" is from seven <glossary term="Indigenous" title="1139">autochthonous</glossary> <glossary term="Varietal" title="1071">varieties</glossary> that grow under the walls of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Catarratto" title="249">Catarratto</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Alicante" title="90">Alicante</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pignatello" title="797">Pignatello</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Ansonica/Inzolia" title="1323">Inzolia</glossary> Imperiale and <glossary term="Ansonica/Inzolia" title="1323">Inzolia</glossary> Minuta, <glossary term="Grillo" title="511">Grillo</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Carignan" title="237">Carignan</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><em>"</em><glossary term="Vinification" title="1104"><em>Vinifying</em></glossary><em> them as an </em><glossary term="Methode Ancestrale" title="1311"><em>ancestral method</em></glossary><em> is a way to enhance these grapes which are often not </em><glossary term="Harvest" title="521"><em>harvested</em></glossary><em>. The sparkling wines are not produced every year."</em></p>
<p>Finally, this is <glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantelleria</glossary> so there has to be a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Passito" title="765">passito</glossary><span>!</span></span></span> Dubbed "Passulata", Francesco describes it as:<em> "the wine that best represents </em><glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759"><em>Pantelleria</em></glossary><em>. Making this wine is an immeasurable act of love towards our island which, like Nature, knows how to be very generous, but also hard, tiring, unpredictable and ever-changing, different with each season."</em></p>
<p>Over the years, we have had the honor of working with some of the most innovative and trailblazing producers in Europe. In our estimation, what binds them has always been a passion for expressing a sense of place, with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Organic" title="746">organics</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Hand Harvesting" title="520">hand-harvesting</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Native Yeast" title="538">native yeasts</glossary> and <glossary term="Minimal Intervention" title="664">minimal intervention</glossary> serving as tools, a means to an end. As the promotion of <glossary term="Natural WIne" title="708">natural wine</glossary> continues devolving into big business, marketing gimmicks and pigeon-holing a one-funk-fits-all visual/flavor profile, it's both reassuring and a breath of fresh air to meet a couple as dedicated, humble, passionate and visionary as Nicoletta and Francesco.</p>
<p><em>"We don't do this for fame or recognition: we do it for the island. None of the rules I learned in school applied to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantelleria</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> I didn't like <glossary term="Zibibbo" title="1131">Zibibbo</glossary> at first because it didn't conform to what I'd been taught. I had to learn everything with the help of my father and hands-on experience. This liberated me and forged a path that made me love the grape and its place on <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantelleria</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> We know our wines are expensive, but we promise this is not speculation and nothing else but the estimated value of our work." </em></p>
<p>For even more in-depth information and photos, please read our visit recap from November 2023 (coming soon)</p>
Salvatore Marino Producer Profile
Salvatore Marino Producer Profile
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producer profile
<p>Wine has been made in Salvatore Marino’s family for generations; growing up, his grandfather and father produced bulk wine in a large facility within the town of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pachino" title="1480">Pachino</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Always a bon vivant, Marino’s love for good food begat a passion for seeking delicious bottles from <glossary term="Sicily" title="951">Sicily</glossary> and beyond. It also made him dream of starting a project of his own. No stranger to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Salvatore knew he could start farming vines from his wife Stefania’s family. But before branching out on his own, he felt the need to learn how to properly run a cellar.</p>
<p>Marino had learned how to make wine with his father, but found those bulk product riddled with defects, namely <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Brettanomyces" title="195">brett</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> For many years, Salvatore cut his teeth working at huge wineries in California, <glossary term="Puglia" title="836">Puglia</glossary> and <glossary term="Sicily" title="951">Sicily</glossary> to further his knowledge of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Enology" title="422">enology</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p><em>“I never liked the wines I made at those places. But you can can learn so much, so fast in those environments. The large scale gives you perspective.”</em></p>
<p>With a decade of big winery experience behind him, Salvatore launched his eponymous <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> in 2017. Today he works 15 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of land divided into five sectors, all close to each other and the town of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pachino" title="1480">Pachino</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> A firm believer in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Polyculture" title="815">polyculture</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> seven of the 15 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> are planted in vines, with the rest planted in fruit trees, wheat, other cereals, table grapes and much more. Some of the land is from Stefania’s family, some is rented and some Marino has purchased. The soils consist of medium to heavy <glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary> with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> planted in <glossary term="Gobelet" title="497">bush-trained</glossary> vines wrapped up on pickets to avoid damage from the region’s constant winds. Salvatore and Stefania do everything themselves, save for some seasonal help around <glossary term="Pruning" title="834">pruning</glossary> and <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> seasons. </p>
<p>Though he still has access to the family winery, Salvatore does not feel comfortable making his wines there because he finds it too big and would rather be closer to the vines. In 2021, he purchased a four <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary> property in the countryside where he is in the early stages of building a new winery, including a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> stocking room, tasting room and guest rooms. The <glossary term="Cantina" title="233">cantina</glossary> is surrounded by <glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary> rich <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Coteau" title="345">coteaux</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> Salvatore has planted grafts of <glossary term="Nero d'Avola" title="714">Nero d’Avola</glossary> and <glossary term="Pignatello" title="797">Pignatello</glossary> and plans to plant <glossary term="Grecanico" title="1322">Grecanico</glossary> in the near future. </p>
<p>Three wines are currently produced. The bianco is 100% <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Catarratto" title="249">Catarratto</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and comes from a 0.5 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary> vineyard planted by Salvatore in 2016 along with a 10 year old <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> of rented vines. It <glossary term="Maceration" title="610">macerates</glossary> five days before <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermenting</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Stainless Steel" title="986">stainless steel</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> then <glossary term="Aging" title="74">ages</glossary> in <glossary term="Concrete" title="325">concrete</glossary> <glossary term="Vat/Tank" title="1140">tanks</glossary> before <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottling</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <glossary term="Catarratto" title="249">Catarratto</glossary> is actually a bit of a rarity in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pachino" title="1480">Pachino</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> as <glossary term="Grillo" title="511">Grillo</glossary> has gained traction throughout <glossary term="Sicily" title="951">Sicily</glossary>; most of Marino’s contemporaries are exclusively replanting <glossary term="Marsala" title="633">Marsala</glossary>’s native white grape. In fact, only four producers currently cultivate <glossary term="Catarratto" title="249">Catarratto</glossary> and Salvatore is the only one focusing on new plantations.</p>
<p><em>“I like </em><glossary term="Grillo" title="511"><em>Grillo</em></glossary><em>, but I do not feel it is optimal for the </em><glossary term="Terroir" title="1026"><em>terroirs</em></glossary><em> of </em><glossary term="Pachino" title="1480"><em>Pachino</em></glossary><em>. My grandfather told me when I was young that </em><glossary term="Catarratto" title="249"><em>Catarratto</em></glossary><em> was the white grape for this area. I always remembered that.”</em></p>
<p>The <glossary term="Rosé/Rosato" title="871">rosato</glossary> is 100% <glossary term="Syrah" title="1001">Syrah</glossary> and a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Direct Press" title="392">direct press</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermented</glossary> and <glossary term="Aging" title="74">aged</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Stainless Steel" title="986">stainless steel</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>Finally, the rosso is 95% <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Nero d'Avola" title="714">Nero d’Avola</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> 5% <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pignatello" title="797">Pignatello</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It <glossary term="Maceration" title="610">macerates</glossary> only six days, <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">ferments</glossary> in <glossary term="Stainless Steel" title="986">stainless steel</glossary> then <glossary term="Aging" title="74">ages</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Concrete" title="325">concrete</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Salvatore’s ultimate goal with this wine is to be versatile with a meal (we can confirm it’s very good with fish) but also something you’d want to keep drinking after you’re done eating or even on its own.</p>
Remembering Our Friend Julie Balagny
Remembering Our Friend Julie Balagny
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<p>When I saw Alain Coudert from Clos de la Roilette’s calling my phone last Saturday morning, I didn’t pick up. It’s abnormal for a vigneron to call over the weekend in regards to business, but I figured he wanted to talk about an upcoming pickup, a label registration or something of the sort. I was also rammed in a car full of childhood friends road-tripping for the holiday weekend; I let the call go to voicemail, deciding to give Alain a ring when we got to our destination. Then came a text from my mother asking me to call her: that meant bad news. Four days later and I’m still shell-shocked over Julie’s passing. Having been at her house less than a month ago, Julie had exuded so much LIFE over the course of that evening that her disappearance still feels impossible.</p>
<p>Where do I start with Julie? The beginning? She started making wines under her own name in 2009, but had entered our collective orbit a few years prior. Her name was on everyone’s lips circa 2007 as the new talent to look out for. So Joe and Denyse decided they had to meet her, visiting Julie while she still ran the cellar at Terres des Chardons in the Costières de Nimes. An instant connection was made and it was agreed Louis/Dressner would import the wines. The following summer, Denyse remembers seeing Julie in the Beaujolais with Yvon Métras: she had visited the land that would become her Fleurie parcels <strong>(1) </strong>but nothing was finalized.</p>
<p>After securing the land in the Beaujolais and working it less than a full year, Louis/Dressner imported Julie’s first eponymous wines despite what felt like astronomical pricing at the time coupled with the complicated -now increasingly common- full-bodied nature of the solar 2009 vintage. I remember the first cuvées of 2009 "En Remont"<strong>(2)</strong> and “Vieilles Vignes” gathering dust on the shelf at Arlequin Wine Merchant where I worked in San Francisco. Beaujolais was having a moment around then, but that moment was intricately linked to cheaper pricing and the distinctly crystalline, semi-carbonic “light” style the region was known for. Actually, critics loved the 2009 vintage, they felt it was an achievement to have produced such ripe, big wines. We felt it was a pity that a wine we loved for its lightness and freshness was evaluated through the wrong criteria: it was not a vintage of our liking.</p>
<p>LDM pressed on with the fantastic 2010’s, and by 2011 -the first of many vintages Julie felt obliged to blend her cuvées into a one-off wine, in this case “Carioca”<strong>(3)</strong>- a fanaticism of sorts was building around her. Julie’s star would continue to rise, and by the mid 2010’s she had earned her rank as a cult producer amongst a small but dedicated subset of drinkers. Usually I don't care about this type of thing much, but with Julie's wines I began to notice something different. It seemed like savvy drinkers understood and valued her efforts and vision, could TASTE it. </p>
<p>As far as I’m concerned, Julie was instrumental in fomenting a paradigm shift in how natural wine is approached. Producers like Julie forced companies like ours to re-align our values on, well, value. Louis/Dressner has always been about the underdog: independent vignerons from small or unknown regions making real, honest wine. For most of the company’s existence, that usually meant a “bang for your buck” due to the producer and/or region’s lack of notoriety. But vigneronnes like Julie Balagny changed the tide: value didn’t have to be economically tied to a famous region or a famous vigneron anymore, but to the VALUE of hard work, of vision, passion and qualities bordering on artistic expression. More often than not, these producers were outsiders to the region they made wine in: second-career “neo-vignerons/vigneronnes” working hyper-artisanally (in Julie’s case with zero mechanization) with no employees, requiring countless hours more work in the vines and cellar. </p>
<p>There were of course precursors to Julie. But her arrival on the scene at the dawn of the information era, a time when consumers could meticulously geek out on every aspect of a vigneron’s work, was serendipitous and integral in getting a lot of people hooked on seeking out similar wines.</p>
<p>I guess what I’m trying to say is that a lot of what we do now, or at least the way I interpret what we do, goes back to representing a human’s passion and humanity through their wine. Is this something we can actually succeed in as a company? Knowing Julie so well, I could taste the good, the bad, the chaos, the laughs, the bare-bones EVERYTHING, the pseudo-commune that was her house, even her crazy dogs, chickens and sheep running around the yard and vineyards... Are these things someone who's never met her can taste? I don't know, but I'd posit that this type of <em>je ne sais quoi</em> is what drew so many to seek out her cuvées in the first place. Julie made me look for these qualities in other producers, seek them out even.</p>
<p>Ok, I’ve been going on for a while now and barely broached Julie as a person. What can I say, Julie Balagny was one of a kind, always marching to the beat of her own polyrhythmic drum. Born in an aristocratic, well off Parisian family, she eschewed modern life and luxury for peasantry, the country-side, farm work. She lived a bare-bones, rustic and quasi-off the grid lifestyle. She was constantly brimming with restless energy and ideas. She lived in total chaos, and more then once the hectic energy she emitted and surrounded herself with made me feel like the mark of a prank tv-show or like I was making a cameo in a bizarro episode of the Beaujolais Real World <strong>(4)</strong>. </p>
<p>The wackiness really ramped up when Julie moved to Romanèche-Thorins in 2015. Prior to living there, our visits with her tended to be one-on-one, more classic: a meet and greet, a tour of the vines, tasting wines in the cellar then a dinner somewhere. But, with the exception of summer 2015 when we visited her newly acquired Beaujolais and Moulin-à-Vent plots <strong>(5)</strong>, all visits to the Romanèche house meant being SUCKED INTO THE VORTEX. There were of course the aforementioned dogs, chickens and sheep freely roaming the yard, often driving my mother's dog Zaggy completely bonkers <strong>(6)</strong>. More memorable were the ever-revolving cast of employees, seasonal workers, friends, weirdos and wasteoids that became the de-facto accompaniment to our visits. If you’d entered that courtyard enough times <strong>(7)</strong>, you knew you were going to be talking to chain-smoking randos knocking back glass after glass of Gamay <strong>(8)</strong>.</p>
<p>And of course there was always Julie, presiding over the chaos like nothing could be more normal. Cheeks red, hair blonde, eyes blazing blue and smiling at you like the lost long friend she hasn't seen in ages. Within minutes, you’d be deep in a conversation that would go on for hours, constantly re-enforced with another bottle, countless rolled cigarettes and, only after I insisted and because time had gotten away from her, a haphazard, improvised meal thrown together hours later than it should have been <strong>(9)</strong>.</p>
<p>There was always a lot to talk about. The usual vigneron blah blah (the weather, the vintage...) was only a formality with Julie, a quick box to check off so we could get to the good stuff. Sometimes it was hard to focus on her because a sheep was bumping its head into your leg. Or a very intoxicated shirtless man, badly scraped and bruised from drunkenly crashing his scooter hours earlier was berating you for not wearing a face-mask when bicycling in New York City (he'd never been and this was pre-pandemic). Or an equally intoxicated sommelier rolling in the dirt telling a sheep he loved them. Or an even more intoxicated sommelier drunkenly cutting up cucumbers and tomatoes, putting them in his glass, pouring and drinking a Balagny wine in it before I confiscated it (ok, that was the same sommelier telling the sheep he loved it, here is his picture).</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/8e/c6/8ec6df573478a63c1948ee247ee8f24f.jpg" /></p>
<p>Julie's house could sometimes feel like a haven for lost souls. Yet just as often you’d feel a raw energy, an incubator for a new generation of rural youth forging their own path. In both cases, it came from a place of utmost generosity and open-mindedness on Julie’s part. Most of the people I met at her table found inspiration working with her, whether there for seasonal work or deciding they wanted to become a vigneron in their early 50's and randomly apprenticing with her knowing nothing about natural wine. For the full-time crew, itself a rag-tag group of misfits, there was a feeling of belonging, a leftist, ecologically militant oasis in an increasingly far-right and angry rural France. </p>
<p>The most recurrent character in the last few years, one whom I’ve grown to adore, is Sylvain Chanudet, an ex-vigneron and the personified quintessence of a Beaujolois. After a very complicated period in his life, Julie had let Sylvain stay with her for a bit. He never left, becoming a permanent house-mate, adviser, pro-bono employee and even selling Julie some of the grapes he continues to meticulously farm despite not making wine anymore. Over the last few years, a visit with Julie meant a visit with Sylvain, always a treat for me. Their bond and friendship was so clear, so deep and powerful. I can’t imagine how much pain he must be in right now.</p>
<p>My last visit with Julie was less than a month ago, on Thursday June 8th. I got to the house around 6pm: after accidentally startling Julie who hadn’t heard me come in, a group of three young men arrived and quickly hunkered around the outdoor table to smoke cigarettes and drink Gamay. These were Julie’s employees, including Brice aka Docteur Briçou (you may recognize that name from the Moulin-à-Vent cuvée <strong>(10)</strong>) and two other guys whose name I didn’t catch. They were looking at how to manually fix a part of a 1970’s chariot the team use to till the vines; replacement parts haven’t been available to purchase for roughly 45 years. At some point a young woman swung by for no perceptible reason (though I have a hunch), had a few glasses and cigarettes and left.</p>
<p>Julie and I then tasted a recently bottled 2022 called "François", of which she gave me the back story. In 2020, she’d made a one-off wine called “Françoise” <strong>(11)</strong> from a plot of Beaujolais fruit her friend ended up still having when a contract didn’t go through at the last minute. In 2022, a young vigneron had committed suicide just before the harvest and his family was looking to sell the grapes. Julie felt it would have been wrong to call them herself (she didn’t want to take advantage of a terrible situation), but when it was them who reached out she decided to buy some. Julie named the cuvée "François" <strong>(12)</strong> and asked her label artist Delphine to make a man bringing flowers to his Françoise. Two one-offs loaded with symbolism.</p>
<p>We then tried various 2022’s from barrels, some of which had tangible amounts of sugar that still needed to ferment, others that were to be bottled soon (I am unaware if this occurred in the time between my visit and her passing). When we re-emerged from the cellar, Sylvain Chanudet and Tristesse, an older shirtless man who seemed very smily for having the nickname “sadness” (probably the point) had joined the other employees for some smokes and wine before they all headed off to get more work done in the vines.</p>
<p>That left Julie and I. Incredibly, this was destined to be our one and only <em>tête à tête</em> conversation in over a decade of friendship. Without the clique, we talked undistracted for hours-over a few bottles of course. She brought me up to speed with the craziness of dealing with her father’s inheritance and what it meant for the future of the estate. How she was planning on expanding her négociant line with grapes from Sylvain to help her have some earlier releases and keep things financially afloat. How she loved my “Sons of Winearchy” t-shirt <strong>(13)</strong> and wanted me get her one. We dove into her utopian vision of work and what she still hoped to accomplish: a true symbiosis of nature, beast and man coexisting and taking care of one another. I didn’t take very many notes but here are two quotes from that conversation:</p>
<p><em>"I work on a human scale with human beings."</em></p>
<p><em>"We're not business people, we're ecologists.”</em></p>
<p>She talked about giving her employees a chance to make their own wines while still having the security of employment with her, to encourage them to work well and to know they have a support system. In fact, her long-term goal was to create a cave cooperative with her employees, Sylvain Chanudet and a few other vignerons: sharing equipment, helping each other with manual labor, building a communal cellar so smaller upstarts wouldn't have to take on the financial pressure of building their own cellars… Going back to older pieces I’d written about her, Julie was saying much of the same over a decade ago in January 2012:</p>
<p><em>“I think it will remain as is in size. As I mentioned earlier, the real evolution I hope to achieve will come from working with livestock and the woods. If there were to be an expansion, I'd rather do it to help a young vigneron get started. There would be room to assist each other, to share tools, know-how and manual labor.”</em></p>
<p>From this conversation, it finally clicked as to why Julie constantly surrounded herself with all these people, why she was so zen with her open door policy. Anyone and everyone was welcome. This wasn’t because of boredom or loneliness, this was a vision, a way to live… A true cooperative space where anyone was welcome! </p>
<p>Finally, we talked about how she was feeling great overall, how she was really embracing and enjoying life in her 40’s and that it was something I should look forward to. Putain…</p>
<p>As the sun was setting, some of the guys came back, including Sylvain with a bunch of goat cheese from Tristesse’s friend. The other guys left; Sylvain had eaten already but kept us company while Julie prepared a quick meal: salad and cherries from her garden, potted<em> Poulet en Crème</em> and Tristesse’s goat cheese. On the cheese, Sylvain had this to say:</p>
<p><em>“All I need is some of this, a piece of saucisson and a glass of Gamay in the morning. I’m good to go”.</em></p>
<p>The three of us talked for many more hours: about the state of the world, about the Beaujolais, about a bunch of shit that would be too long to transcribe here. Julie started putting on music, which led us listening to Suprême N.T.M (a french rap crew) (<strong>14)</strong> and N.W.A , leading a philosophical discussion of how rap lyrics gave a voice to the oppressed, a way to speak truth to the injustices inflicted upon them. Sylvain admitted it wasn't really his thing sonically; he preferred Toto <strong>(15)</strong>, whom he’d seen live in the 80’s and who he felt were very talented musicians. At some point a Mozart sonata came on. Chaos!</p>
<p>Before leaving, Julie gave me a picnic basket full of breakfast goodies and an unlabeled magnum for Kewin Descombes’ 10 year anniversary party <strong>(16)</strong>, which I drank with Jules Métras, Elisa Guerrin, Laura Lardy and a young woman from California apprenticing at Domaine Chapel who was hoping to visit Julie at some point. As I was about to drive off, Julie called for me in the night, running towards the car to hand me the notebook I’d forgotten at the table. It was the last time I’d see her.</p>
<p>That night, I felt like we were on the verge of something. Like any truly amazing conversation, it can feel like you’ve figured everything out, that your ideas can change the world. Julie was radiant with joy and energy, smiling, laughing, cheering us on. We did the same. At one point I felt the presence of my usual Beaujolais companion Denyse (aka my mom) and my deceased father at the table with us, smiling fondly on these three individuals from wildly different backgrounds united over good wine and good people. I got emotional. I told myself: “this is why we fucking do what we do.” It was by far the best visit I’d ever had with Julie; she seemed at the apex of what she was doing, ready to push things to a whole other level. On my end, I left invigorated and re-inspired for the future: my own, my company’s, Julie’s. The visit felt like a gift, a sign of great things to come. Yet just a few weeks later I find myself forced to re-interpret those feelings.</p>
<p>The magic of Julie Balagny can never be emulated or recreated. She was amongst a small group of vignerons/vigneronnes I truly idolize for their eclecticism, irreverence, passion, energy, idiosyncrasy and conviction. Julie forged a community around her, one we’re all so much better off for having been a part of. I won’t try to find a replacement for Julie; instead I’ll look out for those same qualities in those I choose to surround myself with.</p>
<p>Because people like her CAN change the world.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/1c/e5/1ce5d40d2b1f69433fb7c03221633931.jpg" /></p>
<p>***********</p>
<p><strong>(1): Julie in her Fleurie vines with Trevor Kellogg in 2019.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/87/14/871416eddbc32128f5ed30da2cac7aaa.jpg" /></p>
<p>(<b>2</b>)<strong>: a scan of the "En Remont" 2009 label.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/cf/58/cf58eb735fa2bceea84e46833c44595f.jpg" />. </p>
<p><strong>(3) The Carioca 2011 label.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/6c/40/6c40c82cf495d88f05063a105db9cb96.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(4): Christmas in summer at Julie Balagny's. Notice all the bottles on the table. </strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/9a/58/9a58088edfe6f5fac1fa214bd3232251.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(5): Julie in her Moulin-à-Vent vines, 2015.</strong><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/c1/73/c173f3d97b362623a75f6a231cb029f7.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(6) Dogs and sheep driving Zag bonkers.</strong></p>
<p><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="560" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7C4QOVQ2dks" title="Balagny Zag Bark" width="320"></iframe></p>
<p><strong>(7): The front yard in Romanèche-Thorins</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/e0/d0/e0d014f15aabf250d1b86412201e1b4d.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(8): Rolling tobacco and Gamay, staples at Julie's table. Notice the Che Guevara tobacco pouch.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/1e/db/1edb7763a9f917a12d76da3c712e669f.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(9): My last haphazard meal with Julie, 2023.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/20/d7/20d762a2ac0347613d1e6d108c1172a2.jpg" /></p>
<p>(10) The Docteur Briçou label </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/b0/07/b007025bc9088e34ef5833280b09f502.jpg" />(11) "Françoise", a one-off cuvée made in 2020 from purchased fruit.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/9b/6d/9b6d36f784775bcb986899d2a01620ec.jpg" /></p>
<p>(12) "François" a one-off cuvée and the only 2022 bottled at the time of my visit. the spiritual succesor to "Françoise".</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/6d/21/6d2112da190af1ff5fd61d32653ec948.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(13): The Sons of Winearchy designed for our 2015 trade tasting t-shirts.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/3b/c1/3bc1ec3bfd7f3d59fd583334ff82d13b.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(14): The music video for Suprême N.T.M's "Laisse Pas Trainer Ton Fils", the song we listened to and one of the best songs in the history of French hip-hop.</strong></p>
<p><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="404" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/biYdUZXfz9I" title="Suprême NTM - Laisse pas traîner ton fils (Clip officiel)" width="546"></iframe></p>
<p><strong>(15) Toto: they saw the rain down in Africa. Here is a nine minute remix I've been using as a secret weapon in DJ sets for years:</strong></p>
<p><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="404" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mDwI0DTqD_A" title="Late Nite Tuff Guy - Bless The Rains (LNTG Epic Journey)" width="539"></iframe></p>
<p><strong>(16): Beaujolais Breakfast.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/84/25/8425295ea61595f6f3017b707cd27e64.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(MISC): A pair of Converse gifted to Julie in 2021. It became a running gag that we secured our annual allocation of her wines by bringing her a pair, as they are much cheaper in the United States. </strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/f7/77/f777072acf89af35aa27cd350b5337ef.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(MISC): Julie driving us to her Fleurie parcels in 2019.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/5e/7a/5e7a6c1be9eb1d6c8bdc84357266b45f.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(MISC): a whirlwind of dogs and sheep encircling Denyse Louis in 2015.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/86/d1/86d10a3749622348cb281090e51ebc08.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(MISC): The label for the 2017 one-off "Docteur Buchaille Présente Ordinaire". That vintage, Julie's microscopic yields forced her to blend her Moulin-à-Vent grapes with her Beaujolais grapes. Inspired by her amazing time in California following her invite to Brumaire in Oakland, she decided to immortalize this mashup by naming the cuvée after the Oakland wine bar Ordinaire (the joke being that it is anything but ordinary). She also included the whale tattoo Ordinaire owner Bradford Taylor has and Keven Clancy, our partner and friend at Farm Wine Imports, front and center of the label (that's him with the glasses). </strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/1b/be/1bbe24b29bd36dbd2d3a24436ca87d1e.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(MISC): Le label for "Bella Ciao", the other 2017 cuvée in which Julie blended all of her Fleurie fruit into one wine.</strong></p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>From wikipedia: "Bella ciao" is an Italian protest folk song from the late 19th century, originally sung by the mondina workers in protest against the harsh working conditions in the paddy fields of Northern Italy.</strong></p>
<p><strong>It is widely assumed that the mondina song was modified and adopted as an anthem of the Italian resistance movement by the partisans who opposed Nazism and fascism, and fought against the occupying forces of Nazi Germany, who were allied with the fascist and collaborationist Italian Social Republic between 1943 and 1945 during the Italian Civil War. However, historians argue that there is little to no evidence that Italian partisans actually sang the song.</strong></p>
<p><strong>Versions of "Bella ciao" continue to be sung worldwide as a hymn of freedom and resistance.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/d6/28/d6280abe88edbb0492172e6e20e9c50e.jpg" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>(MISC): a video I recorded of Julie grabbing a salad in her backyard for our last dinner. I posted it on social media, to which she responded: <em>Ainsi va la Vie!</em>" ("such is life!")</strong></p>
<p><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="560" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/N9KZIbKr1XI" title="Julie in her backyard" width="320"></iframe></p>
<p> </p>
A Visit with Thomas Puechavy
A Visit to Thomas Puechavy's in February 2023
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producers visit
<p><em><strong>Words and photos by Jules Dressner. </strong></em></p>
<p>This winter, we were able to visit Thomas Puechavy for the first time. After greeting us at his home in Nazelles-Négron, we took the 17 minute car ride to the village of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray </glossary></span></span>to visit his vines. I sat up front with Thomas, who I'd only met minutes prior, along with his two friends Raf and Martin. It was a fun ride; Thomas is like me, Franco/American, but grew up his entire life in Paris. Raf is French but lives in London and Martin is German. Both were in France to help Thomas <glossary term="Pruning" title="834">prune</glossary> before spending the weekend at the various wine fairs around <glossary term="Saumur" title="919">Saumur</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Angers" title="104">Angers</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>Everyone spoke English, and we discussed the VERY REAL connection between musicians/music lovers who are also really into wine. You see, Thomas' first life was largely spent making music and touring with the band Moriarty. It was during extensive bouts on the road that he caught the wine bug. Raf and Martin originally met him through music, and they too are now completely enamored with wine through Thomas.</p>
<p><em>"Both reward an obsessive nature."</em></p>
<p>After a beautiful drive, we'd arrived to the village of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> From a small dirt path, we walked onto an open field that quickly gave way to a large plateau of vineyards. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/24/3b/243bfddfbd2feb0066a06035bbab18f8.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/1f/f7/1ff7d1ee44fea92a7b40476c12cc0494.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/f1/9d/f19d29bb11e00e95b9c86670aa2b5ed8.jpg" /></p>
<p>Thomas explained that this plateau is shared with Huet and Foreau. Some neighbors! The soils are <glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but this particular area is very light in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> making for exceptional drainage and imparting tons of <glossary term="Minerality" title="662">minerality</glossary> to the wines. Puechavy's vines are spread amongst many <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the youngest 25 and the oldest in their 80's. All in all, Thomas farms 3.5 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> spread over multiple <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plots</glossary> and two <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Lieu-Dit" title="594">lieu-dits</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> all within the same plateau. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/2d/27/2d27739fe37966ea08df58e8f3fff800.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/09/59/09595cb681f924ef3bef9c020c8aa173.jpg" /></p>
<p>The vines had been worked <glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331">conventionally</glossary> prior to Thomas' arrival in 2018 and are currently in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Conversion" title="332">organic conversion</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> So far he's been very careful with the soil, working it only superficially and very lightly at that.</p>
<p><em>"I worry there are still some roots at the superficial level after years of intensive </em><glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331"><em>conventional viticulture</em></glossary><em>."</em></p>
<p>Thomas is also looking into <glossary term="Cover Crop" title="1255">cover-crops</glossary> and various herbal sprays to bring vigor back to the soils. </p>
<p><em>"I'm pretty lucky. Huet and Foreau work </em><glossary term="Biodynamic" title="160"><em>biodynamically</em></glossary><em> and </em><glossary term="Organic" title="746"><em>organically</em></glossary><em> and are my only big neighbors. We're even in a counsel together to promote </em><glossary term="Biodiversity" title="1162"><em>biodiversity</em></glossary><em> in </em><glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121"><em>Vouvray</em></glossary><em>." </em></p>
<p>One major project at the moment is to replant an indigenous tulip that all but disappeared in the area with the rise of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331">chemical agriculture</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Huet has always been able to maintain them on their land and is now giving them to other growers in the counsel to propagate in their own vineyards.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/f6/ec/f6ec86864bc33c29e6c0a01f7717c8d2.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/db/7a/db7a2dc44114263dd7f39a0a3294d245.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/23/bc/23bcabd49f5dba952c97c2879550c3a0.jpg" /></p>
<p>While walking through the vines, Thomas also explained how he originally had no intention to work in the <glossary term="Loire Valley" title="602">Loire</glossary> or even to start his own <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><em>"After finishing my studies, my plan was to go work for someone else, probably somewhere in the south like the </em><glossary term="Languedoc" title="579"><em>Languedoc</em></glossary><em>, and eventually find a little </em><glossary term="Plot" title="1133"><em>plot</em></glossary><em> to make some wine on the side. During an apprenticeship in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Loire Valley" title="602"><em>Loire</em></glossary><span>,</span></span></span> my boss at the time introduced me to a retiring </em><glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089"><em>vigneron</em></glossary><em> who had 10 </em><glossary term="Hectare" title="523"><em>hectares</em></glossary><em> in </em><glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121"><em>Vouvray</em></glossary><em>. His big stipulation was that he DID NOT want his land worked by someone already established in the area. He had some great <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary> but wanted me to take on all 10 </em><glossary term="Hectare" title="523"><em>hectares</em></glossary><em>. That wasn't possible, but I did happen to know two other guys who wanted to start small </em><glossary term="Estate" title="427"><em>estates</em></glossary><em> of their own. We agreed to split the land, and here I am today."</em></p>
<p>From the vines, we headed back to Nazelles-Négron to taste some wines in Thomas' beautiful <glossary term="Tuffeau" title="1053">tuffeau</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/b1/23/b123715932bebed8a0b13c5ee6f41f18.jpg" /></p>
<p>We began in the <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrel</glossary> room, tasting the soon to be <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottled</glossary> "Rayon Blanc" 2021 and "Les Doyennes" 2020.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/e3/80/e38078ac677273551dc2ebac113bce90.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/55/69/556997b9a1830c3df89c95634b019315.jpg" /></p>
<p>Both wines are made in a very straightforward fashion: <glossary term="Direct Press" title="392">direct-pressed</glossary> then <glossary term="Racking/Soutirage" title="843">racked</glossary> to <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrel</glossary> to <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">ferment</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Aging" title="74">age</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> "Rayon Blanc" comes from the <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary>'s younger vines and is <glossary term="Aging" title="74">aged</glossary> 14 to 16 months before <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottling</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> "Les Doyennes" comes from the old vines (60 to 80 years old) and <glossary term="Aging" title="74">ages</glossary> 26 to 28 months before <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottling</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>A third wine, a <glossary term="Pétillant Naturel" title="778">pet-nat</glossary> called "Les Turbulants", begins its <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermentation</glossary> in <glossary term="Fiberglass" title="445">fiberglass</glossary> before finishing in bottle. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/d5/e1/d5e1385670ede41d44ba34ce1136b60e.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/b7/c7/b7c7c9d858b9accbfb6ad6fec6497893.jpg" /></p>
<p>We ended the tasting with an <glossary term="Off-Dry" title="736">off-dry</glossary> 2022 from a tiny <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vat/Tank" title="1140">vat</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Thomas wasn't sure what he was going to do with it during the visit, but has since decided to <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottle</glossary> it without <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">sulfites</glossary> with a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Crown Cap" title="359">crown cap</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> expecting a "perlant" style to develop in the bottle.</p>
<p>After all that hard work, it was lunch time and we finally got to eat at Hervé and Patricia Chardonneau's Le Berlot in <glossary term="Montlouis" title="684">Montlouis</glossary> for the first time! </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/46/a4/46a4ecce12c76f48251490f9a27bef23.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/de/d1/ded1c1727412022ab60a0c4ade88a66a.jpg" /></p>
Thomas Puechavy Producer Profile
Thomas Puechavy Producer Profile
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producer profile
<p>Thomas Puechavy was born and raised in Paris. For most of his adult life he played harmonica, accordion and jew's harp in the band Moriarty (while it's possible you've heard of them, they remain a BIG DEAL in France/Europe since their formation in the mid-aughts. Denyse Louis is a fan and thinks you should check out the singer Rosemary's solo stuff…) Like many musicians we know, Thomas fell in love with food and wine during his extensive bouts of touring. In 2016, he decided to take the plunge into wine, studying <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary> and <glossary term="Enology" title="422">enology</glossary> in <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Amboise" title="100">Amboise</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> His original plan was to work as an apprentice in various regions of France, eventually settling somewhere warm like the <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Languedoc" title="579">Languedoc</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> where he'd work for someone else while comfortably tending a small <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plot</glossary> of his own.</p>
<p>The first part of this plan worked, sort of. While working in the <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Loire Valley" title="602">Loire</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> Thomas' boss at the time introduced him to a <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vigneron</glossary> who owned 10 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of land in <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> He was looking to retire and adamant his vines not be worked or purchased by someone already established in the area. It was an interesting proposition, but Thomas was asked to take over all 10 <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> It was too much on his own; fortunately Puechavy knew of two other upstarts who were looking to start small <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estates</glossary> of their own. The three split the land, and in 2018 Thomas began renting 3.5 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> in the village of <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary> <span>, producing his first vintage in 2019.</span> </span> </span></p>
<p>To say Puechavy lucked out with his land is an understatement: these <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary> are as good as it gets. The vines are sandwiched between those of Huet and Foreau, the two legendary, defining <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estates</glossary> of <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> The vines, planted exclusively in <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Chenin Blanc" title="281">Chenin Blanc</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> grow on <glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary> and <glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary> and are roughly 25 to 80 years old. The specificity of the <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroir</glossary> is that it's much more <glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary> heavy than other parts of <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> resulting in great drainage and unparalleled <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Minerality" title="662">minerality</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> The prior owner worked them <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331">conventionally</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> so Thomas is in the process of <glossary term="Conversion" title="332">converting</glossary> them to <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organics</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span></p>
<p>So far he has been very gentle with working the soil, as he does not want to damage roots that may still be at superficial levels after years of <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331">conventional farming</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> He's also exploring the idea of <glossary term="Cover Crop" title="1255">cover-crops</glossary> and will most certainly replant certain <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plots</glossary> of very <glossary term="Old Vines" title="740">old vines</glossary> that barely yield fruit. As an aside, it doesn't hurt that Huet and Foreau both have been practicing <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organics</glossary> and <glossary term="Biodynamic" title="160">biodynamics</glossary> for a long time and are Thomas' only neighbors.</p>
<p>Puechavy was also lucky to find a house built next to a large quarry ideal for wine production in Nazelles-Négron. One catch though: while Nazelles is technically within the limits allowed to <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinify</glossary> <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> Thomas lives 500 meters OUTSIDE of the delineated border! The <glossary term="Appellation" title="113">appellation</glossary> being notoriously strict with its zoning (<a href="https://punchdrink.com/articles/montlouis-sur-loire-vs-vouvray-wine-chenin-blanc-battleground/" target="_blank">we recommend reading this article for context</a>), Puechavy is only allowed to label his wines as <glossary term="AOC" title="108">AOC</glossary> <glossary term="Touraine" title="1036">Touraine</glossary> ; in such he's decided to <glossary term="Declassification" title="383">declassify</glossary> them all to <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vin de France" title="1092">Vin de France</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> It felt like was an unfair disadvantage ar first, but over the years (and in spite of working some of the best <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary> in the <glossary term="Loire Valley" title="602">Loire</glossary> ) he's come to embrace this unique, slightly absurd standing.</p>
<p>Work in the <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> is straightforward. Thomas divides the grapes between younger and <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Old Vines" title="740">older vines</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> which are then <glossary term="Direct Press" title="392">direct-pressed</glossary> to <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">ferment</glossary> and <glossary term="Aging" title="74">age</glossary> in <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrel</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> From the younger vines, a wine called "Rayon Blanc" is produced, <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottled</glossary> 14-16 months after it was <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvested</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> From the <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Old Vines" title="740">old vines</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> a wine called "Les Doyennes" is produced with an extra year of <glossary term="Elevage" title="418">elevage</glossary> in <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrel</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottled</glossary> 26-28 months after <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> A <glossary term="Pétillant Naturel" title="778">pétillant naturel</glossary> called "Les Turbulants" is also made from the younger vines, partially <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermenting</glossary> in <glossary term="Fiberglass" title="445">fiberglass</glossary> before continuing in bottle. Puechavy lets the wines <glossary term="Spontaneous Fermentation" title="976">ferment naturally</glossary> and does not <glossary term="Filtration" title="447">filter</glossary> or <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Fining" title="449">fine</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> When it comes to <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">S02</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> for the time being he remains pragmatic: the goal is to not use any if possible, but Thomas is not averse to adding <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">sulfur</glossary> at any point he feels the wines need them. This has varied <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> to <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> <glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvée</glossary> to <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvée</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span></p>
<p>Having only started in 2019, we cannot wait to see the wines' evolution as the land recovers from its <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organic</glossary> <glossary term="Conversion" title="332">conversion</glossary> and Thomas gains more insight/ experience in the vines and <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> The wines are already unmistakably " <glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary> " and resonant of their fantastic <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroir</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> We're not going to bullshit you and say they are in the same league as Foreau or Huet, but connaisseurs should find parallels in the wines' structure. <glossary term="Vin de France" title="1092">VDF's</glossary> like no other!</p>
Geremi Producer Profile
Geremi Producer Profile
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producer profile
<p>Brother and sister Miriam and Renato Mareschi are first and foremost restaurateurs. Both grew up working in their parents’ restaurant in Ranuccio until it closed in 2006; Miriam ran the front of the house (becoming the sommelier in 1990) while Renato made the pizzas.</p>
<p>Since 2002, Miriam owns and runs the fantastic trattoria Piazzetta del Sole in the medieval town of Farnese. Always encouraging her chefs to meticulously source ingredients, in the late aughts she found herself wanting to do the same with wine. Having become increasingly enamored with <em>vini naturali</em>, by 2010 Miriam served these exclusively. Wanting to offer her customers and excellent house wine, in 2016 she decided to start a small project of her own. Her brother Renato, who’d made wine with his father and grandfather in his youth (Mr. Mareschi produced wine for personal consumption until 1997), joined her and, in 2017, a white wine called "Itinerae" was produced to be served exclusively at Piazzetta del Sole.</p>
<p>This first experience made Renato fall in love with the idea of tending vines and making wine, so he began sourcing as many vineyards as he could to rent and produce Geremi’s first “official” <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> in 2018. Today, the <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> consists of roughly two <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of rented <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> most in the surrounding area of Farnese (home of Miriam’s restaurant) and Ischia di Castro (home of the <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary>) with a few other <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plots</glossary> in Montefiacone, a <glossary term="Commune" title="322">commune</glossary> closer to the the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Lake Bolsena" title="173">Bolsena Lake</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>The wines are made in a small <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> in Ischia di Castro that's been in the family for generations. Miriam and Renato inherited it in the 1980's, when the family still made wine for personal consumption from a <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plot</glossary> they no longer own. With no formal training outside of his time working with his family, Renato’s <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinifications</glossary> are simple and rustic: a nod to the personal consumption winemaking of his past generation while also in line with what he and Miriam like to drink. Almost everything is currently produced in <glossary term="Stainless Steel" title="986">stainless steel</glossary> or <glossary term="Fiberglass" title="445">fiberglass</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vat/Tank" title="1140">tanks</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> though this may change with time. The wines <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">ferment</glossary> with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Spontaneous Fermentation" title="976">spontaneous yeasts</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> are never <glossary term="Fining" title="449">fined</glossary> or <glossary term="Filtration" title="447">filtered</glossary> and the only thing added is a small amount of <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">S02</glossary> during <glossary term="Maceration" title="610">macerations</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Racking/Soutirage" title="843">racking</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>For more details on each individual wine, please check their descriptions below.</p>
Pedecastello Producer Profile
Pedecastello Producer Profile
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producer profile
<p>Pedecastello, or “foot of the castle”, is a small <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticultural</glossary> project from Alex della Vecchia. Nestled in the mountains of Tambre, a <glossary term="Commune" title="322">commune</glossary> of Belluno, the <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> has been worked by Alex’s family for over a century. For generations they raised cattle, first for milk and then for meat.</p>
<p>When Alex’s grandfather passed away, he inherited the land with his uncle. They worked a total of three days together before deciding to go separate ways over a fundamental disagreement: Alex wanted to butcher and transform the meat to sell individual cuts and his uncle wanted to sell them whole. At the same time, Alex had been dreaming of making his own wine and began wondering if he could use his part of the property to plant vines.</p>
<p>Shaped by high <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Elevation" title="419">elevation</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> grassy, fertile soils and a cool climate, the region has historically been dedicated to cattle, notably for production of the famed <glossary term="DOP" title="402">DOP</glossary> Piave cheese. <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">Viticulture</glossary> remains extremely rare, with roughly 60 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> planted at the time of this writing.</p>
<p><em>“Making wine in Belluno is 100% a result of climate change. 30 years ago, it would have been way too cold.”</em></p>
<p>Inexperienced but full of conviction, Alex decided to plant a <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary> of <glossary term="Pinot Noir" title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> in 2010. Around this time, he met the late Ernesto Cattel who, in the early years of shaping his Costadilà project, was looking to acquire some cattle. Alex seized the opportunity to collaborate with Ernesto and, hoping to learn how to make wine, began working full-time with Costadilà. As his time at Costadiłà blossomed into head of <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary> and eventually running the <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> after Ernesto’s passing, he kept cultivating his own <glossary term="Pinot Noir" title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> and lending a helping hand with the cattle.</p>
<p>Alex currently grows two <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of vines at Pedecastello: the aforementioned <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary> of <glossary term="Pinot Noir" title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> planted in 2010 and another split 50/50 between <glossary term="Bianchetta Trevigiana" title="1141">Bianchetta</glossary> and PIWI (a German, fungal resistant <glossary term="Hybrid" title="532">hybrid grape</glossary>) planted in 2017. The soils, composed of <glossary term="Sand" title="909">sand</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> are very fertile, with <glossary term="Mother Rock" title="690">mother rock</glossary> a full two meters below the <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Topsoil" title="1032">top soil</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Alex does not add <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cover Crop" title="1255">cover crops</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but lets grass grow wild and encourages <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Biodiversity" title="1162">biodiversity</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> With an obvious assist from the cattle on hand, manure is used to <glossary term="Fertilizer" title="442">fertilize</glossary> the soils.</p>
<p>Alex has been experimenting with various methods of still and sparkling <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinifications</glossary> but so far has chosen to focus primarily on <glossary term="Methode Ancestrale" title="1311"><em>ancestrale</em></glossary><em> </em>sparklers. While in the same <glossary term="colfondo" title="1382">Col Fondo</glossary> vein as Costadilà (in fact they are made in the same <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary>), the <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary> and use of <glossary term="Pinot Noir" title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> distinguish “Pedecastello” as a rounder expression marked by red fruit. Alex <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottled</glossary> his first <glossary term="colfondo" title="1382">Col Fondo</glossary> <glossary term="Bianchetta Trevigiana" title="1141">Bianchetta</glossary>/PIWI <glossary term="Blend" title="168">blend</glossary> in 2021 and will continue to do so in future <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintages</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
Domaine Carterole Visit
A Visit to Domaine Carterole in March 2022
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producers visit
<p><em><strong>Words and photos by Jules Dressner.</strong></em></p>
<p>We've known Joachim Roque for quite a few years now, but this was our first time visiting his <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Fueled by croissants, coffee and a nice view of the Mediterranean, we were ready to go! </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/5b/25/5b25d76464e006db818797e78c8bd725.jpg" /></p>
<p>Joachim told us he wanted to start the visit in the vines of Saint-André, the village where he lives. Not realizing it was a solid 20 minute drive, we had some time to chat about this sector I'd never visited before. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/77/df/77dfe658f31d33d482174eb415048b46.jpg" /></p>
<p>Saint-André is not only where Joachim lives but where he has the majority of his vines. The <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary> here are part of the very broad <glossary term="Côtes du Roussillon" title="376">Côtes du Roussillon</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Appellation" title="113">appellation</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>The big project of the moment is to build a <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> minutes from his house for the 2023 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><em>“It’s much closer to </em><glossary term="Collioure" title="319"><em>Collioure</em></glossary><em> and all the Saint-André vines are right there. From my village, there is only one road to </em><glossary term="Banyuls" title="135"><em>Banyuls</em></glossary><em> and the 9 Caves where I have my </em><glossary term="Cellar" title="254"><em>cellar</em></glossary><em>. We’re </em><glossary term="Harvest" title="521"><em>harvesting</em></glossary><em> in August, it’s peak tourist season. Sometimes it takes me an hour and half to get to the 9 Caves. It’s a huge waste of time and energy.”</em></p>
<p>The first sector we visited is Joachim's single largest <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plot</glossary> of land. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/7a/84/7a84a583c9770f8971803bfc351cc830.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/e8/13/e813a479cfde9bfbb5fcfc5f3fc1c3d3.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/04/d2/04d278591814eced1fe9b1779bdc8ac8.jpg" /></p>
<p>The main plantings are 12 year old <glossary term="Muscat" title="698">Muscat</glossary> that go into "Esperanza Blanc", along with the <glossary term="Syrah" title="1001">Syrah</glossary> and <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache Noir</glossary> Joachim uses to make his <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Rosé/Rosato" title="871">rosé</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> In 2022, he will plant some <glossary term="Xarel lo" title="1302">Xarel-lo</glossary> in hopes of making a sparkling wine. The <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> will also be by these vines, to the right of the building in the picture above. </p>
<p>The soils here are very <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Sand" title="909">sandy</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> so <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary> can get up to very respectable 4<span class="zalup"><span>0<glossary term="hl/ha" title="528">hl/h</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/0c/fb/0cfbf9c5991e1db49909d90aa8fdefb7.jpg" /></p>
<p>Some of the younger vines have been struggling, so Joachim planted mustard seeds between the rows to help with vigor.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/b4/11/b411c632ed4b9f478eaad60b75aedc42.jpg" /></p>
<p>The second <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> we visited is what Joachim uses the for his "Brutal".</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/cf/fd/cffd5c742cb259a738e3b40e5513b281.jpg" /></p>
<p>The <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> consists of <glossary term="Syrah" title="1001">Syrah</glossary> <glossary term="Co-plantation" title="309">co-planted</glossary> with <glossary term="Muscat d'Alexandrie" title="687">Muscat d’Alexandrie</glossary> (hey, that's the same <glossary term="Blend" title="168">blend</glossary> as Tom Lubbe's Brutal!) The vines are about 25 years old and planted on rockier <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Sand" title="909">sands</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> They are off an off-road with little else but little patches of vines.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/54/83/5483f0fa3048d2bfba87e0806d70fa2a.jpg" /></p>
<p>That's the <glossary term="Pyrenees Mountains" title="1195">Pyrenees</glossary> in the above background on the left. You could see them at any point of the visit. </p>
<p>The third Saint-André <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> we drove to is planted in 1.2<glossary term="Hectare" title="523">h</glossary> of <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache Noir</glossary> and 1.2<glossary term="Hectare" title="523">h</glossary> of <glossary term="Syrah" title="1001">Syrah</glossary> for reds, along with 40 <glossary term="Are" title="1208">ares</glossary> of <glossary term="Macabeu" title="609">Macabeu</glossary> and <glossary term="Vermentino" title="1081">Vermentino</glossary> for white.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/54/f0/54f09807b519167f46e8c348fffb0e9e.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/84/09/84098fd07b6f2e74317b6574266e4403.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/84/e4/84e46f4a64ba900fc6c4ec771197f9e7.jpg" /></p>
<p>There are plans to plant 35 <glossary term="Are" title="1208">ares</glossary> of <glossary term="Grenache Blanc" title="509">Grenache Blanc</glossary> here in 2022.</p>
<p>We didn't stop and see all 12.5 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> in Saint-Andrée, though we did drive past a few <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> that go into the Tutti Frutti Ananas project. From this land, Joachim currently produces the Carterole "Esperanza" cuvées (white, rosé, red) and roughly 80% of the Tutti Frutti Ananas production. </p>
<p>We then headed to the <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Joachim's main <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> is on the other side of the mountain from Saint-André. There were some stunning views on the drive over. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/29/17/2917a5a01ee2afaa0bfcd988223fe84c.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/f6/e4/f6e4b9005f6625ef41023b1055b458f7.jpg" /></p>
<p>Fun fact: that rock on the top of the picture above is famous for mountain climbing and actually where special police and fire fighters train. </p>
<p>After settling down a windy road, Joachim gave us the the lay of the land. His main <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> parcel has been dubbed Estafette because of the abandoned Renault truck of the same name living in the vineyard. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/95/c4/95c4764a964be283c8cdcc8244bfca29.jpg" /></p>
<p><em>"I have no idea how it got here. But it's useful to hide in when it rains or it's cold!"</em></p>
<p>Hey, at least this is one <glossary term="Lieu-Dit" title="594">lieu-dit</glossary> where we actually know the name's origin! If you pay attention, you'll also notice the truck on all of Joachim's labels along with some <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> a fisherman and <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary>'s famous church Notre Dame des Anges.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/14/7b/147be6451c4bf2a2d6972a829b4e6774.png" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p><em>"If you're driving in the area, you can see the truck from pretty far away. We've thought of painting it with our name and having tastings in it. Maybe one day." </em></p>
<p>From this <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> an "Esta Fête" white and red are produced. Grape wise, it’s a traditional <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> planted with the three colors of <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache</glossary> along with some <glossary term="Carignan" title="237">Carignan</glossary> and a tiny bit of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Roussanne" title="878">Roussanne</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/74/ab/74abdea4b90bda92113c5d0b035b553b.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/d6/45/d645b458f9fc901af39108debb63fba4.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/25/65/2565c72ca2b29eaf597a31da3afbf58f.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/5a/40/5a400833ad816e7f313e2962a2eb1cea.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/cf/52/cf527e5f5a6556b1a19a052911cfbe1a.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/c6/69/c669428e47d62d2a906c6cbb92260e39.jpg" /></p>
<p>The view is not too bad either:</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/39/23/392362bc727801e73d8fe588acef57b3.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/ee/15/ee150d60dcf1778da684600911007215.jpg" /></p>
<p>Directly above Joachim's vines, Manuel from Vinyer de la Ruca has one of his biggest vineyards. I covered it extensively in my 2019 Vinyer de la Ruca visit and recommend you read about if there. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/21/fc/21fc5fe187a73b80d0e9df32c7c21bd2.jpg" /></p>
<p>If you look closely in the photo above, you'll notice sheep. They thought we were there to feed them and were very disappointed. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/91/d2/91d23ccc9e9d66a7b902add9e991be95.jpg" /></p>
<p>One thing I hadn't caught back in 2019 was that a large proportion of the grapes in Manuel's <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> go into the <glossary term="Blend" title="168">blend</glossary> for "Morango", a <glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvée</glossary> from Tutti Frutti Ananas. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/61/b7/61b7cd1622e36536e33d2ff4066084d8.jpg" /></p>
<p>With the sheep still booing (behhhing?) us, we got back in the car, driving closer to <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> itself to visit a second sector.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/70/79/7079905bb7bcf264d276cc51cbefdfac.jpg" /></p>
<p>Here the <glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary> are much more spaced out and at a lower <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Elevation" title="419">elevation</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The three <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenaches</glossary> are planted with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Carignan" title="237">Carignan</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but Joachim is planting other varieties for fun because it is one of the only sectors in <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> that is <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Mechanization" title="645">mechanizable</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> These are also the only vines Joachim owns.</p>
<p>It was lunch time, so we headed back to town for a lovely meal accompanied by Joachim's 2021's. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/f1/a1/f1a15a58ffc0ac115f605046db044a06.jpg" /></p>
<p>The wines were all showing quite well despite it being a very complicated <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> with long <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermentations</glossary> and a particularly worrisome spike of <glossary term="Volatile Acidity" title="1116">volatile acidity</glossary> that forced Joachim to add a gram of <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">sulfur</glossary> to the wines before <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottling</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This is the first time Joachim has used <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">S02</glossary> in his own production. He feels it's a concession but does not regret the decision. </p>
<p>After lunch, we got to be tourists for 10 minutes since the restaurant was right next to Notre Dame des Anges (which was unfortunately under repair scaffolding.)</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/03/78/03784ac9f7446127ccb9990e19bc6476.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/64/f6/64f6e022a7446d1bb1bbdaae67231cee.jpg" /></p>
<p>On the way back to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> we stopped by Joachim's third sector in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/5f/ea/5fea7210163714b013e5075d2f70bef5.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/63/21/6321df73001129619c316c3a27c214f5.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/53/55/5355e12d168cf4fb67b8907f3df4fdca.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/e9/3a/e93a918ba5daa2764757f8042eb1164e.jpg" /></p>
<p>As you can see, these vines are directly above <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Along with the traditional <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenaches</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Carignan" title="237">Carignan</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Joachim has planted <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Roussanne" title="878">Roussanne</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Vermentino" title="1081">Vermentino </glossary>and <glossary term="Mourvèdre" title="692">Mourvèdre</glossary> in this area along with more <glossary term="Grenache Gris" title="1158">Grenache Gris</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache Blanc" title="509">Grenache Blanc</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> A huge and unprecedented storm destroyed a lot of the vines here in 2014, so it was an opportunity to start fresh with these less traditional grapes. It was also a ton of work as they had to rebuild the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>Before linking with Manuel from Vinyer de la Ruca, we stopped by the Carterole <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> to taste a last wine Joachim had forgotten at lunch.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/2d/ad/2dad287bfe791f18b7dd727d5288d708.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/c7/40/c7401652e6006efb390d26119632e952.jpg" /></p>
<p>As with all the producers working out of the 9 Caves, the spaces are tiny and everything fits where it can. These bare bones <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellars</glossary> really afirm that the quality of these wines is coming from the <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroir</glossary> first and foremost.</p>