<p>Originally from a small town outside of<span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="744">Porto</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> José Carvalho Moreira a.k.a. Zé Tafé's followed up a bachelor's degree in cinema and art by working in various <glossary title="746">organic</glossary> and <glossary title="160">biodynamic</glossary> farms for three years. While in the <glossary title="880">Roussillon</glossary> harvesting fruit in 2010, a close friend invited Zé, an accomplished musician, to come play guitar for some winemakers. Among them was <a href="http://louisdressner.com/producers/vinyer%20de%20la%20ruca">Manuel Di Vecchi Staraz</a>, an Italian transplant who years earlier had set up a small <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Upon discovering Zé's distaste for wine, Manuel insisted he try the ones he produced. It was an instant revelation and the beginning of a great friendship. </p>
<p>Fast forward a few years: Zé is now working for Ikea and has made it an annual tradition to go <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> with his friends in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Well into a night of revelry, Manuel insisted Zé must start making wine and that he'd find him a vineyard. Sure enough, a few months later he got the call:</p>
<p><em>"I've got three vineyards for you to see, you need to come fast and choose one." </em></p>
<p>That same weekend, Zé became the proprietor of a beautiful <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="508">Grenache</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>La Cave des Nomades' first release was in 2014, a single <glossary title="363">cuvée</glossary> called "Le Pirate Qui Chante". The <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> has quickly grown and evolved, now at almost eight <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> of vines spread across 12 <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="760">parcels</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> mainly in very <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">low-yielding</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="740">old vines</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="508">Grenache Noir</glossary><span>, </span></span></span><glossary title="1158">Gris</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="509">Blanc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="237">Carignan Noir and Gris</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="692">Mourvèdre</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="1001">Syrah</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="650">Merlot</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="609">Macabeo</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="699">Muscat Petit Grain</glossary> and <glossary title="271">Chardonnay</glossary> are grown. This diversity of grapes is complimented by various <glossary title="1104">vinification</glossary> <glossary title="1160">vessels</glossary> including <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="986">stainless steel</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> old <glossary title="142">barrels</glossary> and <glossary title="103">anforas</glossary> of all shapes and sizes.</p>
<p>Zé's approach to winemaking is deeply influenced by his artistic background. While <glossary title="1026">terroir</glossary> is of course of utmost importantance, he channels the act of <glossary title="1103">viticulture</glossary> and winemaking as outlets for personal inspiration, as ways to tell the stories of his own experience. Each <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> is <glossary title="1104">vinified</glossary> separately, sometimes by the color of grape, with the <glossary title="1160">vessels</glossary> instinctively changing each year. <glossary title="168">Blends</glossary> or single vineyard <glossary title="185">bottlings</glossary> are then decided accordingly, with new wines added to the fold if deemed appropriate. Each <glossary title="363">cuvée</glossary> is effectively a micro-production ranging from 300 to 1200 bottles. </p>
<p>More than an expression of grape, soil or place, the <glossary title="363">cuvées </glossary> tells tales of a fictional universe where each wine tells a story:</p>
<p><em>"It comes from a constant need to travel. I always felt the need to move from place to place. So when I decided to stay in </em><glossary title="135"><em>Banyuls</em></glossary><em>, I needed my imagination to travel. So the </em><glossary title="254"><em>cellar</em></glossary><em> is home, but from there I can go wherever my inspiration takes me."</em></p>
<p>Each <glossary title="185">bottling</glossary> is in itself a fable in the canon of La Cave des Nomades' universe: a happy-go-lucky pirate, a court jester seeking a new path, an African party bus blasting music through Angola... These are brilliantly brought to life by artist Katja Stroph, whose distinctive label art cryptically portrays each character or tale. </p>
<p>The effect of a shared universe is tied together by the unique <glossary title="336">cork</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="573">labels</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> a throwback to a long-gone trend Zé remembers from his youth in Portugal. The <glossary title="573">labels</glossary> are produced in Germany by the only company in the world that makes them, then shipped to Portugal so that the old man who originated the trend can print Katja's art on them. Fittingly, even the <glossary title="573">labels</glossary> are nomadic.</p>
<p><em>This interview with Zé Tafé took place over Skype in August, 2018.</em></p>
<p><strong>For those who do not know, you are Portuguese. How long did you live there before moving to France?</strong><br />
<br />
I lived in Portugal until I was 27 years old, then started studying and traveling. I studied cinema and have a bachelor’s degree in that, and also studied painting. Towards the end of my studies, I decided I wanted to learn about <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="78">agriculture</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> So I left the city and travelled from village to village, farm to farm, trying to learn about <glossary title="746">organic</glossary> and <glossary title="160">biodynamic</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="78">agriculture</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
<strong>What inspired this?</strong><br />
<br />
I think it was always inside me. A call from the past, a past life (laughs).<br />
<br />
<strong>Is your family from an agricultural background?</strong><br />
<br />
Not at all. My father worked in computers. My mother was a secretary/accountant. My grandparents worked in commerce. <br />
<br />
<strong>And you grew up in Porto?</strong><br />
<br />
In a little town near <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="744">Porto</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<strong>Going back to agriculture, were you actually going to school for this or just trying to learn on your own? </strong><br />
<br />
It was always hands-on with farmers in England, German, Norway... I spent almost three years traveling, learning. <br />
<br />
<strong>Was it ever wine related?</strong><br />
<br />
No. <br />
<br />
<strong>Was there an an end-goal in these travels?</strong><br />
<br />
It was really just about discovery, but I’d always dreamt of owning some land and doing something related to nature. The thing I learned the most about was working with wood, helping people build eco-houses and eco-toilets in farms and music festivals. <br />
<br />
<strong>Speaking of music, you play and produce it, correct?</strong><br />
<br />
It’s always been a very important part of my life. I started playing guitar when I was nine, and have always played in a lot of different projects, from rock to funk to folk.<br />
<br />
<strong>What brought you to Banyuls?</strong><br />
<br />
It was a friend who invited me to come spend the weekend. At the time I was working the fruit season in the area. I ended up staying 15 days! Or maybe a month (laughs).<br />
<br />
<strong>You told me that at that point, you did not like wine. How did you get into it?</strong><br />
<br />
It's true. I drank beer and occasionally spirits. What happened was that first weekend, my friend had asked me to bring my guitar so we could play for some guys making wine. When I arrived, Manuel from <a href="http://louisdressner.com/producers/vinyer%20de%20la%20ruca">Vinyer De La Ruca</a> asked me what I wanted to drink. I of course said beer, but he told me they didn’t drink that here. When I told him I didn’t like wine, he told me to try what they were making, that it wasn’t <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="331">conventional</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> standard wine. There was <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="602">Loire</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="151">Beaujolais</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="754">oxidative</glossary> wines from Italy... It was a big session, I got a little drunk (laughs).<br />
<br />
Something instantly clicked with these wines; they were like nothing else I’d ever experienced. That first night was the start of my friendship with Manuel, and he was always opening bottles and sharing. Once he saw I was actually curious and interested, he started explaining where the wines were from, the grapes, the styles... In fact the day after we met, he invited me to his <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> to help out. He also introduced me to <a href="https://vimeo.com/46255777">Alain Castex</a>, <a href="http://louisdressner.com/producers/bruno%20duch%C3%AAne">Bruno Duchêne</a>, all the friends.<br />
<br />
That was 2010, and I knew I had to come back. So it became a tradition to come <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> with them. <br />
<br />
<strong>Were you still studying agriculture at this point?</strong><br />
<br />
At that point I was working for Ikea, doing woodwork and visual merchandising. I worked there almost three years, and it was also a nomadic experience. I spent stints in Denmark, Germany, Switzerland, Austria, Italy, France, Belgium... It was a nice experience, and also helped me save up a little money to buy some land and stay in one place.<br />
<br />
<strong>So how did Cave des Nomades start?</strong><br />
<br />
It was the arrival of my children, and also the creation of the <a href="http://9caves.com/" target="_blank">9 Caves</a>. The kids made me want to stop what I was doing, to take things in a new direction. A space becoming available sealed the deal. <br />
<br />
<strong>What year was that?</strong><br />
<br />
I acquired my first vineyard in 2013 and made my first wine in 2014. <br />
<br />
<strong>How did you find vineyards as an outsider?</strong><br />
<br />
(Laughs) The first vineyard came out of a big night with Manuel and Bruno. Manuel got adamant that I had to make wine in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and I told him I needed a vineyard! He said: <em>“Don’t worry. I’ll find you a vineyard so you can make wine.” </em><br />
<br />
At the time I was living in Zurich. It was November, and I got a call from Manuel who told me that he’d found a couple of available vineyards, that I had to come fast and choose one. I took a plane that weekend and visited what was available. And so I started with my a 1.2 <glossary title="523">hectare</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="760">parcel</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It's still my favorite place to work. <br />
<br />
<strong>Can you give me a breakdown of the estate as it exists today?</strong><br />
<br />
I have almost eight <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> of vines spread across 12 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="760">parcels</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> mainly in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="740">old vines</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> I grow <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="508">Grenache Noir</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="1158">Gris</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="509">Blanc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="237">Carignan Noir and Gris</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="692">Mourvèdre</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1001">Syrah</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="650">Merlot</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="609">Macabeo</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="699">Muscat Petit Grain</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="271">Chardonnay</glossary><span>.</span></span></span>..<br />
<br />
It was not easy to accumulate this land. Not only am I foreign, but when I told owners I wanted to work <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="746">organically</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> a lot rejected me. Still, I met some nice people who were a little more open minded. For example, the owner of my house proposed I take care of his vineyards, or the friend of a friend who knows me...<br />
<br />
When I started with the first vineyard, it was really an experiment. But I quickly fell in love with this work, and knew I needed to study <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1103">viticulture</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Finishing these studies also entitled me to European Union aids to start my <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
<strong>Did you study winemaking at all?</strong><br />
<br />
No. I learned everything hands-on with Manuel and Alain Castex. Over the years, I’ve met and befriended other <glossary title="880">Roussillon</glossary> producers (Jean-François Nicq, Stéphane Morin) and they have also guided me. Basically, I’m still a baby (laughs).<br />
<br />
<strong>Is this learn-as-you-go approach why you have so many vessels to vinify in? </strong><br />
<br />
Kind of. I still think that what I want to do is treat my winemaking like if I was a painter. I want to play around with my grapes, which I <glossary title="1104">vinify</glossary> <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> by <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> before making <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="168">blends</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> But I also want to feel like I can always make something new with my tools. <br />
<br />
<strong>Some of the wines are from single vineyards though.</strong><br />
<br />
Yes. "Le Pirate Qui Chante", "La Découverte Inattendue" and "Les Rhizomes des Sorcières". <br />
<br />
<strong>The whole project, including the wine names and labels, are rather conceptual. Could you elaborate?</strong><br />
<br />
La Cave des Nomades comes from a constant need to travel. I always felt the need to move from place to place. So when I decided to stay in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> it was my imagination that needed to travel. So the <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> is home, but from there I can travel to wherever my inspiration takes me.<br />
<br />
The names of the wines are from my imagination: imaginary stories of nomads roaming the land. Of course, they are inspired by real life experiences.<br />
<br />
<strong>You started with just one wine and now produce about ten. What inspires each new cuvée?</strong><br />
<br />
Interacting with other winemakers has inspired me to try new techniques.Again I go back to the painting metaphor: with different paints and different tools, you can obtain a variety of results. It’s the same with a guitar: with six strings you can play thousands of chords. <br />
<br />
<strong>Can we get through the folklore of each of cuvée? </strong><br />
<br />
<em>Petfakir:</em> This one is about a street performer. I knew this guy I’d always work with at festivals that was a real fakir; he could lie down for hours on a bed of nails, eat glass… He was a really nice guy! I really respected his work with pain. Making a <glossary title="778">pet nat </glossary>was painfully hard for me; I kept saying FUCK, FUCK FUCK when making it, and somehow that made me me think of of FAK FAK FAK, which made me think of the fakir. <br />
<br />
<em>PetZeppelin</em>: I’ve always loved Led Zeppelin.<br />
<br />
<em>L’Arlequin Errant</em>: This one is very personal. I like to make jokes and act like everything is ok, but sometimes when you joke around all the time you get fucked. So this is the Arlequin trying to take a new direction, changing roles. <br />
<br />
<em>Les Rhizomes des Sorcières</em>: This is the story of my mother, my grandmother, my sisters, my daugther. It’s about faith and witchcraft. And a rhizome is something that spreads, so it’s about that transmission from generation with the women in my life. <br />
<br />
<em>Le Vieux Saltimbanque</em>: This was inspired by the countless times I performed music on the streets. Le Vieux Saltimbanque is from a Baudelaire poem, it’s the story of a street artist that’s performing at a big party but nobody notices him. Often when you play music on the street, you have people constantly in front of you, walking by you. But even the ones who stop and watch don’t really see you, you’re just part of the background, an afterthought.<br />
<br />
<em>Vagamonde</em>: Vagamonde is about me, black and white, yin and yang, my path to find my heart (grapes), the balanced/unbalanced... Maybe about all these things, but mostly about being free, free spirits, sky and earth...<br />
<br />
<em>Le Pirate Qui Chante</em>: When I arrived to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> I was fascinated by the region’s history of contraband. Smugglers used the mountains between France and Spain. Also, it was common to work as both a fisherman and in the vines at the time. The combination of these elements reminded me of a pirate. It's also personal because my grandfather’s nickname was pirate, essentially because he was a smuggler (laughs). So it’s a singing, happy pirate satisfied with his profession. <br />
<br />
Le Grande Machimbombo: This is the name of a fictional bus from Africa. A big mix of color and noise always comes to mind when I imagine it. It’s inspired by the stories my father told me of his time in Angola during the war; they left a very strong impression on me. But it’s also about a close friend, the one who introduced me to Manuel and everyone else. He’d always say “hey Machimbombo, Machimbombo” when addressing me, so I decided to name a wine after it. <br />
<br />
<em>Amphorisme</em>: It’s like aphorism with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="103">anfora</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<em>La Découverte Inattendu</em>: This is about a woman you think you know, but discover something you weren’t expecting. <br />
<br />
<strong>Was the label art always something you intended to be such a large part of the project?</strong><br />
<br />
Yes. I spoke to more than 20 artists I’d met over the years, One stood out of the pack, and after a wonderful drawing I asked to work with her. We also have a lot in common. She’s French but speaks Portuguese, she’s also travelled all over the world, so it was a good connection. Her name is Katja Stroph. <br />
<br />
<strong>Another unique aspect is that the labels are made of cork.</strong><br />
<br />
When I was a child, there was a trend of Portuguese wines using <glossary title="336">cork</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="573">labels</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> These disappeared completely, but Portugal still produces lots of <glossary title="336">cork</glossary> products: hats, wallets... So I searched and searched and finally found the old man who used to produce the <glossary title="336">cork</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="573">labels</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Today, there is only one company in Germany who can make these <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="573">labels</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which are then sent to Portugal to be printed.<br />
<br />
<strong>How do you see Cave des Nomades evolving?</strong><br />
<br />
I do everything myself. I think that it’s very likely I will need to reduce the amount of land I work and do a <glossary title="1089">vigneron</glossary>/<glossary title="729">négoce</glossary> hybrid. I still want my own vineyards and to have a personal connection with the land. But I have friends who are interested in some of my vineyards, so I think it will work out.</p>
producer visit05.08.2019
La Cave des Nomades Visit
This visit to La Cave des Nomades took place in July, 2018
<p><em><strong>This visit to La Cave des Nomades took place in July, 2018.</strong></em></p>
<p><em><strong>Words and images by Jules Dressner.</strong></em></p>
<p>It was a Monday in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> everything was closed and we needed something for dinner. So <a href="http://louisdressner.com/producers/Duchene" target="_blank">Bruno Duchêne</a> had asked us to go swing by his favorite fish shack in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1187">Port-Vendres</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the small town we were staying in.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//b3/04/b30419e3a571cd08ff042b166d5b26ed.jpg" /></p>
<p>Though there are many little fish-shacks off the dock, this one is very popular and people were already waiting when we got there 10 minutes early. The boat was about 30 minutes late, so an ensuing mob scene occured when it arrived. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//35/f8/35f82892f76c60bf8ffa8faeaca8677d.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//cd/b5/cdb5b0dfde0dcf1a937d92393258fecc.jpg" /></p>
<p>Bonus points if you can spot Kevin!<br />
<br />
Denyse decided to stay out of it and enjoy a mango sorbet.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//3f/cc/3fcc90be57de67cdffe8607f000ae1d5.jpg" /></p>
<p>Amongst the madness, Jose was able to muscle his way through and order four kilos of these fantastic red mullets.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//fc/97/fc97404373724a90867911f17e635c51.jpg" /></p>
<p>After an incredible tour of <a href="http://levinaigre.com/">Vinaigrerie la Guinelle</a>, José Carvalho Moreira a.k.a. Zé Tafé scooped us up to visit some vines. We started with the 1.2 <glossary title="523">hectare</glossary> <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> that produces "Le Pirate Qui Chante". </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//da/cb/dacbc71753b5a779fc3cd29bdabeda21.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//20/d1/20d1a581f6643240023fc073fa243fa1.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//78/7a/787aed4fec73d65d2880c26d6cb81ddb.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//f3/16/f31651505e570c7242015d2e1a3d6294.jpg" /></p>
<p>This is the first <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> Zé acquired in 2013, and was abandoned at the time. Most of the vines were planted in 1995, though there are a lot of <glossary title="740">old vines</glossary> interspersed. It's 100% <glossary title="508">Grenache</glossary> and as you can see, the density of planting is very low. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//ac/5d/ac5db7ead8350594a2bab6624d96050b.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//42/5c/425c7c57e95ba47eadba2bb26c21f285.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//5c/0e/5c0eeb1af7eac9fbf756ab7bd8da5e2c.jpg" /><br />
<br />
The <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> is always subject to constant winds. <br />
<br />
<em>"We do one or two </em><glossary title="328"><em>treatments</em></glossary><em> a year." </em><br />
<br />
Zé also shared his innovative future-plans to deal with wild boars:<br />
<br />
<em>“My strategy is to have a radio with people talking 24/7. It resonates well here and freaks them out.”</em><br />
<br />
From the pirate vineyard, we drove through <glossary title="135">Banyuls</glossary> to buy bread. It gave me time to snap a picture of the world's rarest floater. <br />
<br />
<img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//ea/26/ea267697f272fb34043ea0ebfbb0b8f2.jpg" /></p>
<p>The second vineyard we visited featured a more mountainous landscape. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//98/36/983658c391eca8d76c90c5508c2324a2.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//ff/71/ff715f17f1e05487dd27b113f9241ffd.jpg" /></p>
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<p>This <glossary title="523">hectare</glossary> is an <glossary title="740">old vine</glossary> <glossary title="446">field-blend</glossary> planted in <glossary title="509">Grenache Blanc</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1158">Gris</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="237">Carignan Noir and Gris</glossary> as well as <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="692">Mourvèdre</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The red grapes go into the "Vagamonde" <glossary title="168">blend</glossary> and the whites are <glossary title="185">bottled</glossary> as "Les Rhizomes des Sorcières". </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//a2/79/a27946a0a10295a0192676cfae199f67.jpg" /></p>
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<p>It was getting late, but we swung by a final<strong> <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary></strong> of very steep vineyards planted in <glossary title="508">Grenache</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="237">Carignan</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
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<p>Before dinner, we zipped back to <glossary title="135">Banyuls</glossary> to go taste Zé's 2017's and check out his miniscule <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
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Various <glossary title="1104">vinification</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1160">vessels</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> all small, were sprawled around, including these two <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="103">anforas</glossary><span>:</span></span></span></p>
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You can read more about the meanings of each <glossary title="573">label</glossary> in my interview, but here's a peak at what they all look like. </p>
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It was finally time for dinner on Bruno's boat Odin!</p>
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Odin is fully equipped with Korean BBQ table grills:</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//0b/d1/0bd128774aef62e6b0b84f554d279c91.jpg" /><br />
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<p>We also enjoyed some wild boar rillettes hunted by Bruno's father. </p>
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Wow. Writing that made me hungry and want to stay in <glossary title="135">Banyuls</glossary> forever. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//07/3d/073d921b49801d7bda478fa5f2afbad2.jpg" /></p>
<p>Originally from a small town outside of<span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="744">Porto</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> José Carvalho Moreira a.k.a. Zé Tafé's followed up a bachelor's degree in cinema and art by working in various <glossary title="746">organic</glossary> and <glossary title="160">biodynamic</glossary> farms for three years. While in the <glossary title="880">Roussillon</glossary> harvesting fruit in 2010, a close friend invited Zé, an accomplished musician, to come play guitar for some winemakers. Among them was <a href="http://louisdressner.com/producers/vinyer%20de%20la%20ruca">Manuel Di Vecchi Staraz</a>, an Italian transplant who years earlier had set up a small <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Upon discovering Zé's distaste for wine, Manuel insisted he try the ones he produced. It was an instant revelation and the beginning of a great friendship. </p>
<p>Fast forward a few years: Zé is now working for Ikea and has made it an annual tradition to go <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> with his friends in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Well into a night of revelry, Manuel insisted Zé must start making wine and that he'd find him a vineyard. Sure enough, a few months later he got the call:</p>
<p><em>"I've got three vineyards for you to see, you need to come fast and choose one." </em></p>
<p>That same weekend, Zé became the proprietor of a beautiful <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="508">Grenache</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>La Cave des Nomades' first release was in 2014, a single <glossary title="363">cuvée</glossary> called "Le Pirate Qui Chante". The <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> has quickly grown and evolved, now at almost eight <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> of vines spread across 12 <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="760">parcels</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> mainly in very <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">low-yielding</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="740">old vines</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="508">Grenache Noir</glossary><span>, </span></span></span><glossary title="1158">Gris</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="509">Blanc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="237">Carignan Noir and Gris</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="692">Mourvèdre</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="1001">Syrah</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="650">Merlot</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="609">Macabeo</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="699">Muscat Petit Grain</glossary> and <glossary title="271">Chardonnay</glossary> are grown. This diversity of grapes is complimented by various <glossary title="1104">vinification</glossary> <glossary title="1160">vessels</glossary> including <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="986">stainless steel</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> old <glossary title="142">barrels</glossary> and <glossary title="103">anforas</glossary> of all shapes and sizes.</p>
<p>Zé's approach to winemaking is deeply influenced by his artistic background. While <glossary title="1026">terroir</glossary> is of course of utmost importantance, he channels the act of <glossary title="1103">viticulture</glossary> and winemaking as outlets for personal inspiration, as ways to tell the stories of his own experience. Each <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> is <glossary title="1104">vinified</glossary> separately, sometimes by the color of grape, with the <glossary title="1160">vessels</glossary> instinctively changing each year. <glossary title="168">Blends</glossary> or single vineyard <glossary title="185">bottlings</glossary> are then decided accordingly, with new wines added to the fold if deemed appropriate. Each <glossary title="363">cuvée</glossary> is effectively a micro-production ranging from 300 to 1200 bottles. </p>
<p>More than an expression of grape, soil or place, the <glossary title="363">cuvées </glossary> tells tales of a fictional universe where each wine tells a story:</p>
<p><em>"It comes from a constant need to travel. I always felt the need to move from place to place. So when I decided to stay in </em><glossary title="135"><em>Banyuls</em></glossary><em>, I needed my imagination to travel. So the </em><glossary title="254"><em>cellar</em></glossary><em> is home, but from there I can go wherever my inspiration takes me."</em></p>
<p>Each <glossary title="185">bottling</glossary> is in itself a fable in the canon of La Cave des Nomades' universe: a happy-go-lucky pirate, a court jester seeking a new path, an African party bus blasting music through Angola... These are brilliantly brought to life by artist Katja Stroph, whose distinctive label art cryptically portrays each character or tale. </p>
<p>The effect of a shared universe is tied together by the unique <glossary title="336">cork</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="573">labels</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> a throwback to a long-gone trend Zé remembers from his youth in Portugal. The <glossary title="573">labels</glossary> are produced in Germany by the only company in the world that makes them, then shipped to Portugal so that the old man who originated the trend can print Katja's art on them. Fittingly, even the <glossary title="573">labels</glossary> are nomadic.</p>
<p><em>This interview with Zé Tafé took place over Skype in August, 2018.</em></p>
<p><strong>For those who do not know, you are Portuguese. How long did you live there before moving to France?</strong><br />
<br />
I lived in Portugal until I was 27 years old, then started studying and traveling. I studied cinema and have a bachelor’s degree in that, and also studied painting. Towards the end of my studies, I decided I wanted to learn about <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="78">agriculture</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> So I left the city and travelled from village to village, farm to farm, trying to learn about <glossary title="746">organic</glossary> and <glossary title="160">biodynamic</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="78">agriculture</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
<strong>What inspired this?</strong><br />
<br />
I think it was always inside me. A call from the past, a past life (laughs).<br />
<br />
<strong>Is your family from an agricultural background?</strong><br />
<br />
Not at all. My father worked in computers. My mother was a secretary/accountant. My grandparents worked in commerce. <br />
<br />
<strong>And you grew up in Porto?</strong><br />
<br />
In a little town near <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="744">Porto</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<strong>Going back to agriculture, were you actually going to school for this or just trying to learn on your own? </strong><br />
<br />
It was always hands-on with farmers in England, German, Norway... I spent almost three years traveling, learning. <br />
<br />
<strong>Was it ever wine related?</strong><br />
<br />
No. <br />
<br />
<strong>Was there an an end-goal in these travels?</strong><br />
<br />
It was really just about discovery, but I’d always dreamt of owning some land and doing something related to nature. The thing I learned the most about was working with wood, helping people build eco-houses and eco-toilets in farms and music festivals. <br />
<br />
<strong>Speaking of music, you play and produce it, correct?</strong><br />
<br />
It’s always been a very important part of my life. I started playing guitar when I was nine, and have always played in a lot of different projects, from rock to funk to folk.<br />
<br />
<strong>What brought you to Banyuls?</strong><br />
<br />
It was a friend who invited me to come spend the weekend. At the time I was working the fruit season in the area. I ended up staying 15 days! Or maybe a month (laughs).<br />
<br />
<strong>You told me that at that point, you did not like wine. How did you get into it?</strong><br />
<br />
It's true. I drank beer and occasionally spirits. What happened was that first weekend, my friend had asked me to bring my guitar so we could play for some guys making wine. When I arrived, Manuel from <a href="http://louisdressner.com/producers/vinyer%20de%20la%20ruca">Vinyer De La Ruca</a> asked me what I wanted to drink. I of course said beer, but he told me they didn’t drink that here. When I told him I didn’t like wine, he told me to try what they were making, that it wasn’t <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="331">conventional</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> standard wine. There was <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="602">Loire</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="151">Beaujolais</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="754">oxidative</glossary> wines from Italy... It was a big session, I got a little drunk (laughs).<br />
<br />
Something instantly clicked with these wines; they were like nothing else I’d ever experienced. That first night was the start of my friendship with Manuel, and he was always opening bottles and sharing. Once he saw I was actually curious and interested, he started explaining where the wines were from, the grapes, the styles... In fact the day after we met, he invited me to his <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> to help out. He also introduced me to <a href="https://vimeo.com/46255777">Alain Castex</a>, <a href="http://louisdressner.com/producers/bruno%20duch%C3%AAne">Bruno Duchêne</a>, all the friends.<br />
<br />
That was 2010, and I knew I had to come back. So it became a tradition to come <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> with them. <br />
<br />
<strong>Were you still studying agriculture at this point?</strong><br />
<br />
At that point I was working for Ikea, doing woodwork and visual merchandising. I worked there almost three years, and it was also a nomadic experience. I spent stints in Denmark, Germany, Switzerland, Austria, Italy, France, Belgium... It was a nice experience, and also helped me save up a little money to buy some land and stay in one place.<br />
<br />
<strong>So how did Cave des Nomades start?</strong><br />
<br />
It was the arrival of my children, and also the creation of the <a href="http://9caves.com/" target="_blank">9 Caves</a>. The kids made me want to stop what I was doing, to take things in a new direction. A space becoming available sealed the deal. <br />
<br />
<strong>What year was that?</strong><br />
<br />
I acquired my first vineyard in 2013 and made my first wine in 2014. <br />
<br />
<strong>How did you find vineyards as an outsider?</strong><br />
<br />
(Laughs) The first vineyard came out of a big night with Manuel and Bruno. Manuel got adamant that I had to make wine in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and I told him I needed a vineyard! He said: <em>“Don’t worry. I’ll find you a vineyard so you can make wine.” </em><br />
<br />
At the time I was living in Zurich. It was November, and I got a call from Manuel who told me that he’d found a couple of available vineyards, that I had to come fast and choose one. I took a plane that weekend and visited what was available. And so I started with my a 1.2 <glossary title="523">hectare</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="760">parcel</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It's still my favorite place to work. <br />
<br />
<strong>Can you give me a breakdown of the estate as it exists today?</strong><br />
<br />
I have almost eight <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> of vines spread across 12 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="760">parcels</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> mainly in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="740">old vines</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> I grow <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="508">Grenache Noir</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="1158">Gris</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="509">Blanc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="237">Carignan Noir and Gris</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="692">Mourvèdre</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1001">Syrah</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="650">Merlot</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="609">Macabeo</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="699">Muscat Petit Grain</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="271">Chardonnay</glossary><span>.</span></span></span>..<br />
<br />
It was not easy to accumulate this land. Not only am I foreign, but when I told owners I wanted to work <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="746">organically</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> a lot rejected me. Still, I met some nice people who were a little more open minded. For example, the owner of my house proposed I take care of his vineyards, or the friend of a friend who knows me...<br />
<br />
When I started with the first vineyard, it was really an experiment. But I quickly fell in love with this work, and knew I needed to study <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1103">viticulture</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Finishing these studies also entitled me to European Union aids to start my <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
<strong>Did you study winemaking at all?</strong><br />
<br />
No. I learned everything hands-on with Manuel and Alain Castex. Over the years, I’ve met and befriended other <glossary title="880">Roussillon</glossary> producers (Jean-François Nicq, Stéphane Morin) and they have also guided me. Basically, I’m still a baby (laughs).<br />
<br />
<strong>Is this learn-as-you-go approach why you have so many vessels to vinify in? </strong><br />
<br />
Kind of. I still think that what I want to do is treat my winemaking like if I was a painter. I want to play around with my grapes, which I <glossary title="1104">vinify</glossary> <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> by <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> before making <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="168">blends</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> But I also want to feel like I can always make something new with my tools. <br />
<br />
<strong>Some of the wines are from single vineyards though.</strong><br />
<br />
Yes. "Le Pirate Qui Chante", "La Découverte Inattendue" and "Les Rhizomes des Sorcières". <br />
<br />
<strong>The whole project, including the wine names and labels, are rather conceptual. Could you elaborate?</strong><br />
<br />
La Cave des Nomades comes from a constant need to travel. I always felt the need to move from place to place. So when I decided to stay in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> it was my imagination that needed to travel. So the <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> is home, but from there I can travel to wherever my inspiration takes me.<br />
<br />
The names of the wines are from my imagination: imaginary stories of nomads roaming the land. Of course, they are inspired by real life experiences.<br />
<br />
<strong>You started with just one wine and now produce about ten. What inspires each new cuvée?</strong><br />
<br />
Interacting with other winemakers has inspired me to try new techniques.Again I go back to the painting metaphor: with different paints and different tools, you can obtain a variety of results. It’s the same with a guitar: with six strings you can play thousands of chords. <br />
<br />
<strong>Can we get through the folklore of each of cuvée? </strong><br />
<br />
<em>Petfakir:</em> This one is about a street performer. I knew this guy I’d always work with at festivals that was a real fakir; he could lie down for hours on a bed of nails, eat glass… He was a really nice guy! I really respected his work with pain. Making a <glossary title="778">pet nat </glossary>was painfully hard for me; I kept saying FUCK, FUCK FUCK when making it, and somehow that made me me think of of FAK FAK FAK, which made me think of the fakir. <br />
<br />
<em>PetZeppelin</em>: I’ve always loved Led Zeppelin.<br />
<br />
<em>L’Arlequin Errant</em>: This one is very personal. I like to make jokes and act like everything is ok, but sometimes when you joke around all the time you get fucked. So this is the Arlequin trying to take a new direction, changing roles. <br />
<br />
<em>Les Rhizomes des Sorcières</em>: This is the story of my mother, my grandmother, my sisters, my daugther. It’s about faith and witchcraft. And a rhizome is something that spreads, so it’s about that transmission from generation with the women in my life. <br />
<br />
<em>Le Vieux Saltimbanque</em>: This was inspired by the countless times I performed music on the streets. Le Vieux Saltimbanque is from a Baudelaire poem, it’s the story of a street artist that’s performing at a big party but nobody notices him. Often when you play music on the street, you have people constantly in front of you, walking by you. But even the ones who stop and watch don’t really see you, you’re just part of the background, an afterthought.<br />
<br />
<em>Vagamonde</em>: Vagamonde is about me, black and white, yin and yang, my path to find my heart (grapes), the balanced/unbalanced... Maybe about all these things, but mostly about being free, free spirits, sky and earth...<br />
<br />
<em>Le Pirate Qui Chante</em>: When I arrived to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> I was fascinated by the region’s history of contraband. Smugglers used the mountains between France and Spain. Also, it was common to work as both a fisherman and in the vines at the time. The combination of these elements reminded me of a pirate. It's also personal because my grandfather’s nickname was pirate, essentially because he was a smuggler (laughs). So it’s a singing, happy pirate satisfied with his profession. <br />
<br />
Le Grande Machimbombo: This is the name of a fictional bus from Africa. A big mix of color and noise always comes to mind when I imagine it. It’s inspired by the stories my father told me of his time in Angola during the war; they left a very strong impression on me. But it’s also about a close friend, the one who introduced me to Manuel and everyone else. He’d always say “hey Machimbombo, Machimbombo” when addressing me, so I decided to name a wine after it. <br />
<br />
<em>Amphorisme</em>: It’s like aphorism with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="103">anfora</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<em>La Découverte Inattendu</em>: This is about a woman you think you know, but discover something you weren’t expecting. <br />
<br />
<strong>Was the label art always something you intended to be such a large part of the project?</strong><br />
<br />
Yes. I spoke to more than 20 artists I’d met over the years, One stood out of the pack, and after a wonderful drawing I asked to work with her. We also have a lot in common. She’s French but speaks Portuguese, she’s also travelled all over the world, so it was a good connection. Her name is Katja Stroph. <br />
<br />
<strong>Another unique aspect is that the labels are made of cork.</strong><br />
<br />
When I was a child, there was a trend of Portuguese wines using <glossary title="336">cork</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="573">labels</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> These disappeared completely, but Portugal still produces lots of <glossary title="336">cork</glossary> products: hats, wallets... So I searched and searched and finally found the old man who used to produce the <glossary title="336">cork</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="573">labels</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Today, there is only one company in Germany who can make these <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="573">labels</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which are then sent to Portugal to be printed.<br />
<br />
<strong>How do you see Cave des Nomades evolving?</strong><br />
<br />
I do everything myself. I think that it’s very likely I will need to reduce the amount of land I work and do a <glossary title="1089">vigneron</glossary>/<glossary title="729">négoce</glossary> hybrid. I still want my own vineyards and to have a personal connection with the land. But I have friends who are interested in some of my vineyards, so I think it will work out.</p>
Article
producer visit05.08.2019
This visit to La Cave des Nomades took place in July, 2018
<p><em><strong>This visit to La Cave des Nomades took place in July, 2018.</strong></em></p>
<p><em><strong>Words and images by Jules Dressner.</strong></em></p>
<p>It was a Monday in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> everything was closed and we needed something for dinner. So <a href="http://louisdressner.com/producers/Duchene" target="_blank">Bruno Duchêne</a> had asked us to go swing by his favorite fish shack in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1187">Port-Vendres</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the small town we were staying in.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//b3/04/b30419e3a571cd08ff042b166d5b26ed.jpg" /></p>
<p>Though there are many little fish-shacks off the dock, this one is very popular and people were already waiting when we got there 10 minutes early. The boat was about 30 minutes late, so an ensuing mob scene occured when it arrived. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//35/f8/35f82892f76c60bf8ffa8faeaca8677d.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//cd/b5/cdb5b0dfde0dcf1a937d92393258fecc.jpg" /></p>
<p>Bonus points if you can spot Kevin!<br />
<br />
Denyse decided to stay out of it and enjoy a mango sorbet.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//3f/cc/3fcc90be57de67cdffe8607f000ae1d5.jpg" /></p>
<p>Amongst the madness, Jose was able to muscle his way through and order four kilos of these fantastic red mullets.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//fc/97/fc97404373724a90867911f17e635c51.jpg" /></p>
<p>After an incredible tour of <a href="http://levinaigre.com/">Vinaigrerie la Guinelle</a>, José Carvalho Moreira a.k.a. Zé Tafé scooped us up to visit some vines. We started with the 1.2 <glossary title="523">hectare</glossary> <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> that produces "Le Pirate Qui Chante". </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//da/cb/dacbc71753b5a779fc3cd29bdabeda21.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//20/d1/20d1a581f6643240023fc073fa243fa1.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//78/7a/787aed4fec73d65d2880c26d6cb81ddb.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//f3/16/f31651505e570c7242015d2e1a3d6294.jpg" /></p>
<p>This is the first <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> Zé acquired in 2013, and was abandoned at the time. Most of the vines were planted in 1995, though there are a lot of <glossary title="740">old vines</glossary> interspersed. It's 100% <glossary title="508">Grenache</glossary> and as you can see, the density of planting is very low. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//ac/5d/ac5db7ead8350594a2bab6624d96050b.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//42/5c/425c7c57e95ba47eadba2bb26c21f285.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//5c/0e/5c0eeb1af7eac9fbf756ab7bd8da5e2c.jpg" /><br />
<br />
The <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> is always subject to constant winds. <br />
<br />
<em>"We do one or two </em><glossary title="328"><em>treatments</em></glossary><em> a year." </em><br />
<br />
Zé also shared his innovative future-plans to deal with wild boars:<br />
<br />
<em>“My strategy is to have a radio with people talking 24/7. It resonates well here and freaks them out.”</em><br />
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From the pirate vineyard, we drove through <glossary title="135">Banyuls</glossary> to buy bread. It gave me time to snap a picture of the world's rarest floater. <br />
<br />
<img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//ea/26/ea267697f272fb34043ea0ebfbb0b8f2.jpg" /></p>
<p>The second vineyard we visited featured a more mountainous landscape. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//98/36/983658c391eca8d76c90c5508c2324a2.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//ff/71/ff715f17f1e05487dd27b113f9241ffd.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//15/1b/151b814c6db7433a7905a3a7eee61c66.jpg" /></p>
<p>This <glossary title="523">hectare</glossary> is an <glossary title="740">old vine</glossary> <glossary title="446">field-blend</glossary> planted in <glossary title="509">Grenache Blanc</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1158">Gris</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="237">Carignan Noir and Gris</glossary> as well as <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="692">Mourvèdre</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The red grapes go into the "Vagamonde" <glossary title="168">blend</glossary> and the whites are <glossary title="185">bottled</glossary> as "Les Rhizomes des Sorcières". </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//a2/79/a27946a0a10295a0192676cfae199f67.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//34/d5/34d54c580c6ec4e8b159794bb0839a9c.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//95/14/9514ba084fc25078c509dc51a2afe6cc.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//34/36/34361116ab94dd4e740cc705e8683b2b.jpg" /></p>
<p>It was getting late, but we swung by a final<strong> <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary></strong> of very steep vineyards planted in <glossary title="508">Grenache</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="237">Carignan</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//8f/d9/8fd9ddd4b308937b7fb084d72887e0d9.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//5d/02/5d02c6985e5f88e72be5e31cd9e1856e.jpg" /></p>
<p>Before dinner, we zipped back to <glossary title="135">Banyuls</glossary> to go taste Zé's 2017's and check out his miniscule <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//88/06/8806397cbad1bbbee054e8e343809f21.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Various <glossary title="1104">vinification</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1160">vessels</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> all small, were sprawled around, including these two <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="103">anforas</glossary><span>:</span></span></span></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//6b/6a/6b6add4d522c22c10e31c6145c237b3d.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//b6/86/b686d5bbdb189cd026759acc70dd7cf8.jpg" /><br />
<br />
You can read more about the meanings of each <glossary title="573">label</glossary> in my interview, but here's a peak at what they all look like. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//b7/4b/b74bc0667f744824f775b538f86b155a.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//2a/f6/2af637e8dd756dc9cfa02ee21464b655.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//d8/0f/d80fe2af8ecd8217e3066d70a009428d.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//81/c1/81c1fe3fe4342e6ccc82f4ae7fe41635.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//59/a6/59a6135ad82d828c024e212bad585357.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//0d/64/0d64760b13abec8d279ba954f13ff524.jpg" /><br />
<br />
It was finally time for dinner on Bruno's boat Odin!</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//90/b9/90b9789de2b7bc644d04179c75127583.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Odin is fully equipped with Korean BBQ table grills:</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//0b/d1/0bd128774aef62e6b0b84f554d279c91.jpg" /><br />
<img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//1f/ed/1fed3bb8a31f0c0c58884cac5d907d66.jpg" /></p>
<p>We also enjoyed some wild boar rillettes hunted by Bruno's father. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//52/69/526959eedc79da8506e99ac0b212a7e0.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Wow. Writing that made me hungry and want to stay in <glossary title="135">Banyuls</glossary> forever. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_05//07/3d/073d921b49801d7bda478fa5f2afbad2.jpg" /></p>